CiM Limited Editions Sept 2013, part 1: greens and blues

I have some CiM to test!

This is the first half, covering the greens and blues. The next lot are reds, oranges, pinks and neutralish colours.

Here are the transparent/translucent greens and blues in rod form.

CIMLtdBluesGreens_rods

Front to back: aloe juice, absinthe, Tuscan teal, trade winds and neon blue.

These are the opaque green rods.

CiMLtdGreens_rods

Goblin, shrubbery and mint chip.

I mostly did small plain beads for this pass of testing, just to see how the colours came out and how they were to work.

Aloe juice and absinthe

CiMLtd_aloe_absinthe

In small spacers, they looked very similar. Aloe juice is a very pretty transparent green, nice to work. Absinthe is an opal/translucent and it appears it takes a bit of effort to make it do that. It has the slightest hint of mistiness in the spacers I made, and is a tiny bit darker than the aloe juice, though that is more obvious when both are larger. Absinthe is also a much softer colour that likes to spread along the mandrel. It either doesn’t etch at all, or needs a lot longer in the etching liquid. The little spacer at the end was the etch attempt. Aloe juice etches well for a sea-glass look.

Tuscan teal and trade winds

CiMLtd_teal_trade

Tuscan teal is a lovely deep teal, not too green, and is not so dark that you can’t use it on its own in spacers, but also looks great over white. (I am using Effetre white in all these). Etches fine. Trade winds is a very dark midnight denimy blue. I didn’t do plain spacers with this, they would have just looked dark. Again, looks great over white and etches.

Neon blue

CiMLtd_neonblue

Neon blue is similar to cobalt, but is a slightly different shade. It is surprisingly soft for such a saturated blue. Etching makes it seem very slightly purpler. It stands out very well on top of white. I am keeping an eye on these because one of the ones over white has a crack, but there was also a brief power cut when the kiln had nearly finished ramping down, so I can’t be certain if there’s any problem there. The second bead has no cracks yet, and I did an unphotographed test of it over CiM peace the next day too.

Mint chip, shrubbery and goblin

CiMLtd_greens

I like these greens sitting side by side like this! Mint chip is a beautiful pale opaque green. There have been a few of these from CiM with slightly different shades – sprout, for example, and I don’t have them side-by-side to compare right now. Mint chip goes by its name well – it is a pretty minty green, no yellow tinge. It also has a very smooth uniform colour, no darker lines.

Shrubbery is a mid, yellowish green. I wouldn’t quite call it an olive, but it’s getting there. It does have noticeable lines where the colour has been applied.

I like goblin a lot. It is a dark olive colour with dark lines that is deep and shiny on its own and softer when etched. Good for organics and leaf tones, I would think! The rod was a bit shocky though – if you look up at the rod photo, you can see it’s cracked just above the dark line where the most heated section stopped. When I was doing my sculptural bead below, I had to baby it back into the flame every time I picked it up again, or it was shocking off along there and losing a significant chunk of glass. I only had the one rod, so I can’t say whether this would happen with all of them.

CiMLtd_greens02

Here’s a pic on side so you can see the streakiness or lack thereof better.

Then I had some fun and made some goblin beads! (Using my dragon eye murrini). These are grumpier than gremlins and have much bigger TEETH.

13.09.01_CiMGoblins

Goblin, shrubbery and Weimaraner (of which more next time). The colours are darker in places when worked like this: they go in and out of the flame a lot and have heat directed at specific areas, which brings out the darker lines. You can see a little bit of reduction here and there, particularly near goblin goblin’s eye. I like the gnarly look on these!

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