Posts Tagged brown

CiM colour testing: February 2017 colours

The spring 2017 limited editions from Creation is Messy had a whole load of transparent greens, and a whole load of opaque grey rods.

To start with, I picked out the first few colours that appealed to me (those greens!), along with a couple I thought would go with them.

CiM_Feb2017

Chartreuse

2017.02.19_CiM_Chartreuse_Inchworm_Cornsilk

Chartreuse (left) is a luridly bright light yellowy green which I love.

Inchworm

Inchworm (middle above) is another bright juicy green that is more transparent than CiM’s Poison Apple, which is a more standard opalino and can strike lighter and more opaque. Inchworm (like chartreuse) didn’t opacify at all and remained a lovely uniform misty transparent.

Cornsilk

I also love this colour (right beads), which is a uniform opalino beige. It is less streaky than Reichenbach’s mystic beige or pearl beige, and has a nice amount of translucency. Again, it does not seem to strike lighter or more opaque when worked for longer.

Yangtze and Sea Mist

CiM_Feb2017_Yangtze_Mist

I am in two minds about Yangtze and Sea Mist. They are full of micro bubbles and the end of the rod boils very easily, both of these leaving bubbles that don’t go away. The rods themselves look faintly striped inside. I would normally dismiss these as poor quality glass, but I do really like the way the nuggets look – it is different from an opalino, or an etched bead, or from baking soda bubbles. They are muted non-uniform colours which are quite different from the rest of the palate. I think they would do well to pair with or mimic semi-precious beads which have cloudiness or inclusions, where most transparent glass beads alongside those look too brash and uniform in colour. So if you have a very specific use-case, these might be useful. I think I’d buy them if they weren’t too expensive, because I do have a lot of semi-precious beads I think they would go well with (labradorite, blue lace agate and so on).

2017.02.19_CiM_Yangtze_Mist

Troll

2017.02.19_CiM_Troll

Troll is an opaque muted grey-green that is not unlike various of CiM’s other colours, but is still a type I like and find useful. I picked it as an opaque to go alongside these other colours for the two-tone beads below. It does strike greener than it appears on the rod, which is more of a blue grey.

All the nuggets!

2017.02.19_CiM_greens

Aren’t they pretty just on their own?

Two-tone critters

2017.02.19_CiM_Troll_Chartreuse

Troll and chartreuse above.

2017.02.19_CiM_Inchworm_Yangtze

Inchworm and bubbly yangtze above. I do like the colour fade from one to the other.

2017.02.19_CiM_Cornsilk_Mist

Cornsilk and very bubbly sea mist above.

2017.02.19_CiM_Cornsilk_Mist_back

You can see an area of Sea Mist that boiled on the rod on the back of this bead. For use in a non-organic bead this is a no. For one that is, there’s a possibility you might want to do this on purpose. (Again I like the transition from one colour to the other).

2017.02.19_CiM_Troll_Mist

Troll and sea mist above.

2017.02.19_CiM_Cornsilk_Chartreuse

Cornsilk and chartreuse above.

For the rest of the colours, I decided to do organic beads, and paired them up for this.

Peat Moss and Safari

2017.03.26_CiM_PeatMoss_Safari_EffNewIvory

Peat Moss is a suitably brown-olive transparent green. I trapped a couple of bubbles but on the whole it is very clear.

Safari looks greyish in the rod, and not having looked them up beforehand, I was very surprised that it immediately struck to a light sandy brown! The bead coming out of the kiln is more uniform than it looked going in, but you can still see a darker brown in one corner below.

2017.03.26_CiM_PeatMoss_Safari_EffNewIvory_02

I put a wrap of Effetre New Ivory across the transition and twisted it. It is a very handy insta-silvered-ivory rod and I really like the way it came out.

Peridot and Van Dyke Brown

2017.03.26_CiM_Peridot_VanDykeBrown

Peridot is a pale transparent yellowish green. It does bubble quite easily, but they mostly ended up like tiny champagne bubbles here rather than scum, so don’t look too ugly.

Van Dyke Brown is like Safari but darker and greyer. This bead has kept a bit more of the colour variation (but on the light side) so we have a pale milky grey and a warm brown, with some transition areas of yellow and cooler darker grey. It remains streakier than Safari did.

2017.03.26_CiM_Peridot_VanDykeBrown_02

Eel Grass and Pachyderm

2017.03.26_CiM_EelGreen_Pachyderm

Eel Grass is a midtone green. I got a few bubbles again but not too many.

Pachyderm is a grey-brown that has streaks and variations that are less extreme than the previous two. It has come out distinctly warmer and browner than the rod here. (I like these types of greys – CiM has had quite a few of them now).

2017.03.26_CiM_EelGreen_Pachyderm_02

Refresh and Prussian Blue

2017.03.26_CiM_Refresh_PrussianBlue_EffNewIvory

Refresh is a very pretty pale green-aqua (and I think it looks great here!).

Prussian Blue is a dark easily-mottled streaky blue that will strike greenish. Here it has stayed mostly blue.

2017.03.26_CiM_Refresh_PrussianBlue_EffNewIvory_02

I added Effetre New Ivory again and I love the combination of all three colours.

2017.03.26_CiM_Refresh_PrussianBlue_EffNewIvory_03

Hemoglobin and Koala

2017.03.26_CiM_Hemoglobin_Koala_EffNewIvory

Hemoglobin is a semi-transparent red (only the little nub on the side has remained particularly transparent).

Koala is the actually grey one out of all these grey-looking rods. It has striated here next to the New Ivory and produced strong dark lines but from the bottom of the bead looks like it would stay pretty uniform away from that.

2017.03.26_CiM_Hemoglobin_Koala_EffNewIvory_02

There’s an interesting bit here where the New Ivory is underneath and thin on top of the red (and over-reacted on top of the koala).

2017.03.26_CiM_Hemoglobin_Koala_EffNewIvory_03

Okeanos tests

Finally, I did a pair of tests with Safari and Van Dyke Brown as the most reactive colours, combined with silver glass Double Helix Okeanos.

2017.03.26_CiM_Safari_Okeanos

For these beads I had a central cylinder of the brown, a cap of okeanos on each end with little brown dots, and a wrap of okeanos around the centre on top of the brown. (The colours of the okeanos make it look like it is below the browns, which isn’t the case. You may need to stare at it a little!)

In this first bead with Safari, the central okeanos wrap has spread to be very wide. There are dark lines and interior reaction lines in the Safari (the latter particularly obvious in the dots).

The Safari has struck a bit darker than before, which you would expect, but there is plenty of lighter shade left. Okeanos has produced its pretty blues and greens easily.

2017.03.26_CiM_Safari_Okeanos_02

Now for Van Dyke Brown.

2017.03.26_CiM_VanDykeBrown_Okeanos

Here, the central band of okeanos has been swallowed somewhat by the surrounding brown, making it much thinner than the previous bead. The Van Dyke Brown has struck browner than before, and only has grey in the dark reaction lines.

2017.03.26_CiM_VanDykeBrown_Okeanos_02

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Leave a comment

CiM colour testing: Velveteen, Toto, Allspice

These were the new CiM limited edition colours out in spring 2016. I am somewhat behind on writing this post as Flame Off happened…

Also, I got into fountain pens recently, and decided to use my post to practise my italic handwriting so that I got both the thing I had to do and the thing I wanted to do done. Pics thereof at the bottom.

Velveteen

This is a pale peachy brown opalino that can develop mottled striations on the surface. I made four spacers and etched two of them; they do etch and it makes the striations more visible.

16.03.12_Velveteen_spacers

I made a pair of rounds with 006 clear cores. One has a band of silvered ivory around the centre, and the other has a couple of wraps of fine silver wire, melted in so it balls up. There’s a bit of brown fuming from the silver – not a huge amount. The SIS wrap has a clearly demarcated edge and has not spread a great deal.

16.04.10_Velveteen_SISsilver

I made a sculptural gremlin (with bunny ears – could do with a redesign!) with a clear core. It is opaque enough not to have the teeth show through the lips, which is a disconcerting look when it happens. The striations are easiest to see on the body, which is worked longest, but there are also a couple of larger dark areas on the ears.

16.03.29_Velveteen_gremlin

I did a little silver glass testing. First is a bead with a clear core, encased in Velveteen, with a stripe of Double Helix boreas. This was reduced (oxy down) and encased. There’s some darker brown fuming and the boreas is a lovely bright iridescent purple with some mottling.

The second silver glass bead has okeanos instead, again reduced. It has ended up with a variety of colours, from yellow-green to light turquoise to deep blue, again with interior mottling. The stripe has remained thin and not expanded. In the centre of the bead, there is a pronounced dark line at the edge of the silver glass, bordered with a light greenish and the deep blue pushed into the centre of the stripe.

16.04.10_Velveteen_okeanosboreas

Toto

Toto is a soft milky brown with a touch of grey. My spacers came out a uniform colour. The etched pair look softer and lighter.

16.03.12_Toto_spacers

This pair of rounds have cores of 006 clear encased in Toto. One has a wrap of silvered ivory stringer which has spread and fuzzed at the edges. The surface has some darker grey areas. The second bead has two wraps of fine silver wire around the centre, melted in. It has fumed a dark brown line where the silver has melted in.

16.04.10_Toto_SISsilver

My sculptural gremlin is a fairly uniform colour on the front – it has some of the darker grey visible on the back and the soles of the feet, which are cooled swiftly when I flatten them.

16.03.29_Toto_gremlin

Silver glass beads: core of clear, encased in Toto, spiral of silver glass which is reduced and encased in clear. The first bead uses boreas, which has not come out well – it is mostly a greenish brown with only the slightest patch of iridescent purple. The base is visible as a dark brown next to the boreas. The okeanos came out much better and has struck to blue-purples with green at the ends. The Toto shows through as a warmer brown with separation lines where it meets the okeanos.

16.04.10_Toto_okeanosboreas

Allspice

Allspice is a fairly dark amber brown opalino. Used on its own, the spacers are a lovely warm and deep colour. The etched spacers have a nice inner glow.

16.03.12_Allspice_spacers

The pair of rounds with cores of 006 clear and surface decoration have a wrap of silvered ivory stringer and a couple of wraps of fine silver wire. The SIS has not spread much and has sharply defined edges. The silver has a small dark outline immediately adjacent. These beads both have some mottling in the surface of the Allspice. (So do the spacers a little, but it isn’t so evident to the naked eye).

16.04.10_Allspice_SISsilver

In my sculptural gremlin, the Allspice is just thick enough for the white of the teeth not to show through. There is only visible surface mottling on the back.

16.03.29_Allspice_gremlin

In my silver glass beads, the wraps did not spread and the edges and swallowed, giving very narrow bands. These beads have a core of clear, encased in Allspice, a spiral of silver glass, reduced and encased in clear. The Allspice has visible mottling. The boreas has a shiny band of purple surrounded by a darker brown – the same colour as the mottles. The okeanos has narrow very dark edges surrounding the centre stripe with ranges from brighter to darker blue, with some lime green near the holes.

16.04.10_Allspice_okeanosboreas

Handwriting

For anyone interested in fountain pens.
Here is my normal handwriting, where I composed the text. I can write reasonably straight without guides.

16.05.27_planning

16.05.27_planning_02

These were written with a recently-acquired Osmiroid 75 fountain pen with an italic extra fine straight nib. The ink is whatever was in the pen – I’d just added enough water to get it going and decided to write it empty because I just discovered piston fillers take forever to clean out by sucking up and expelling water… You can see it ran out during the third composition – I’d added more water but it was too faint by then so I finished cleaning it.

Here’s the first go – this was still with the old ink. I’d printed out some guide paper and this was the first time I’d used it. I was trying to get it all on one sheet (and failed) hence the lack of paragraph spacing. I was also putting one letter in each grid box, meaning my spacing is rather odd – the ‘m’s are very squished and some words are over-expanded. I used this calligraphy paper PDF generator printed out on my normal printer paper.

16.05.27_Velveteen_italic

I aso realised I hadn’t practised capitals at all…

Second post: ink had run out so I refilled with Diamine indigo. The two look closer in the pics than they should – the original ink was a nice blue/blue-black and indigo has more of a steel grey tint in it. This time I used slightly smaller paper – 0.5 rather than 0.6mm nib size, and with halfway vertical guides too. I mostly ignored the guide boxes this time, just using them to go vaguely in the right direction and not for spacing. Also less obvious in the photo, it starts out with wetter writing so the letters are darker, then for the rest my writing angle must have changed, as I have drier writing and it also gets bigger. That was partly the fault of writing without bright enough light coming from the right direction, as I couldn’t always see the guidelines… The part at the bottom is darker and smaller again. I couldn’t work out how to write the correct s at that size – it’s supposed to be a narrow letter and it was very difficult not to write it wider.

16.05.29_Toto_italic

Third: I went back to the bigger size but kept the extra verticals. It’s looking a bit better, though still various irregularities.

16.06.04_Allspice_italic

Some practise, may also show the ink colour difference a little.

16.05.27_Velveteen_italic_02

Big practice, back with the Lamy Joy and 1.9mm nib. I managed the s shape once or twice at this size!

16.05_practise

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Leave a comment

CiM colour testing: Moccasin, Autumn, Eucalyptus

New colours to test! These are the three that I picked out first, pretty autumnal opaques.

15.08.30_CiM_moccasinautumneucalyptus

Moccasin is the milky mocha brown, Autumn is the peach, and Eucalyptus is the muted green.

15.08.30_moccasionautumneucalytus

They don’t strike differently when making multiple spacers – all very uniform colours.

15.08.30_spacers

This Moccasin gremlin has a little bit of Autumn on the shoulder – I wanted to see how much they stood out against each other. Moccasin was nice and smooth to work with.

15.08.30_moccasingremlin_01

Autumn is a really lovely colour (there are not many opaque peaches!). It does have tiny micro-bubbles that come to the surface, pop, and leave little marks. These did not show up in the spacers, but do in the gremlin, particularly on the back. (There are a few on the front too but they are less obvious). The rod was also fairly shocky for me – it shot off a number of hollow cone shapes when returning the rod to the flame (rather than solid chunks, which is more usual).

15.08.30_autumngremlin_01

Back showing pits from micro-bubbles.

15.08.30_autumngremlin_02

Eucalyptus is a faded blue-tinged green. As a sculpture there’s a tiny bit of streaking in the colour on the flatter expanses, but not much at all.

15.08.30_eucalyptusgremlin_01

I then made some rounds to test reactions. These are all over cores of Effetre 006 clear to make them go further. This pic has them in pairs, moccasin and autumn bases with the same treatment (apart from the rightmost two, which are moccasin bases with dots of autumn or eucalyptus).

15.08.31_moccasinautumnrounds_01

Here are all the moccasin bases together.
1) Two wraps of fine silver wire. It has darkened where the wire has actually melted in, but not fumed the rest of the bead.
2) Copper green dots. They have a crisp line round the edges and the copper green itself has greyed up a little (haven’t soaked these in anything to remove it) but there’s not much else going on.
3) Covered in fine silver leaf! This has a greenish sheen.
4) Autumn dots. This has made some streaks in the moccasin underneath, otherwise clean dots.
5) Eucalyptus dots. Very smooth join between the colours – nothing has spread or shrunk.

15.08.31_moccasinrounds_01

The autumn bases:
1) Two wraps of silver wire. Again very little fuming.
2) Copper green dots. Same effect as moccasin.
3) Fine silver leaf – colour is brownish as expected.

15.08.31_autumnrounds_01

So, moccasin and autumn are two fairly unreactive colours that keep their original look and smoothness most of the time. Should test for silver glass bases.

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Leave a comment

CiM colour testing: Mahogany and Cobblestone

Mahogany

14.08.17_MahoganyGremlin_01

Mahogany is a really nice warm opaque brown, that is properly brown rather than dark red.

14.08.17_MahoganyGremlin_03

I used Tiger Lily for the pumpkins on this gremlin, and you can see that the opacity varied a lot. Some of the pumpkin segments stayed very transparent.

14.08.17_MahoganyBicones_01

These bicones have a base of Mahogany, with a wrap of Poppy round the centre, and the largest has a thin wrap of Tiger Lily on top of that. This was in the same sessions as the gremlins, so I didn’t actually know they weren’t opaque at that point! Tiger Lily especially looks pretty opaque in the rod. So the result is rather more subtle than I was expecting.

Cobblestone

14.08.17_CobblestoneGremlin_01

Cobblestone is a nice slightly brownish grey. Fairly uniform and non-streaky here.

14.08.24_CobblestoneOkeanos_01 14.08.24_CobblestoneOkeanos_02

I used Double Helix Okeanos on top of Cobblestone here (unreduced), and got some fab colours! The Cobblestone has fumed darker and browner around the dots especially. Showing both sides, as one is bluer and one greener.

Mixed rounds

14.08.25_MahoganyRounds_01

I decided to do more combos with Mahogany. These are small rounds with a tiny core of clear, to make my rod of Mahogany go further. Definitely a true opaque! I wrapped one in fine silver wire, the next has a wrap of SIS, then Cobblestone dots, a spiral of black, and finally spreading dots of Reichenbach Kermit (a special: SPL1000).

I did the same thing with Cobblestone, here you go:

14.08.30_CobblestoneRounds_01

They’re both nice colours to use like this, and look great with each other, both staying crisp in the dots. They are both somewhat reactive with the silver, ivory and green, but not overwhelmingly so.

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Leave a comment

Craft Pimp Feb 2014 challenge: found natural material wearable art

This was another recycled/found and no-spend challenge.

“Using only found natural materials such as feathers, leaves, fir cones, twigs, whatever you can find in nature, make a wearable piece of art, such as a brooch, necklace, earrings, hair band, embellished hat, tiara etc.”

The thread for this Craft Pimp February 2014 challenge is here.

I have a small collection of beach pebbles I picked up at Brighton, so decided to use three of those. They’re a dark grey-brown-green and still quite glossy. I picked out a longer one for a pendant and two of roughly the same size for earrings. I used copper wire to wrap them securely, then patinated them with liver of sulphur until they were really black. I tumbled them to bring the copper back up to gunmetal, and hand-polished the top surfaces back some more.

14.02.23_FromTheEarth_02

The earwires are my niobium ones, which go well with antiqued copper. I hung the pendant on brown Greek leather cord.

We had to include a picture of it being worn, which is a bit tricky to photograph one’s self! So excuse the blurriness.

14.02.23_FromTheEarth_01

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Leave a comment

A-dabbling in nail art – marbled decals

I asked for (and received!) vast quantities of new nail polishes for Christmas, since I’ve started having a go at doing nail art again. I did a little bit of multi-colour and attempted patterns some years ago, but nothing like what people are doing now!

I like nail art because it’s a small decorative thing that is pretty much entirely for my benefit – I spend a lot of time at a computer, so looking down and being able to admire interestingly-coloured nails makes me happy. Also, it stops me biting my nails :p

There are so many nail art blogs out there now doing amazing things – I’m only just seeing what is possible.

So, just before New Year, I’d read this tutorial: Dry Water Marble Nails Tutorial on Nuthin’ But A Nail Thing’s blog. I have always loved marbled paper and this looked a lot of fun. I like the idea of making decals with nail polish that you then apply later, because that avoids having to paint left-handedly when I’m right handed.

I did mine on greaseproof paper, because another blog had mentioned parchment paper being the easiest surface to get the polish off. (I think what the US calls parchment paper we call greaseproof, but no idea if theirs is thicker). Well, it will depend on the polishes, but greaseproof paper didn’t work *that* well for me – the polish comes off, but it grips quite tightly and it’s tricky to get the edges up without stretching or tearing, and greaseproof paper is very thin, so also easy to tear with tweezers. Next time I will try on ziplock bags – someone else used a sheet of acetate.

Here are the marbled decals I made, anyway!

13.12.30_MarbledNailDecals_01

The top green and brown one was the first – I made my initial blobs a bit small on that one. I think the next two look a lot better. The neon one uses Models Own Luis Lemon (really neon yellow!), Pukka Purple and Dinky Pinky.

The glittery lime and brown one uses W7 Mojito and Collection 2000 maxiflex Mocha and Shiraz. I was impressed that the mojito works as dots on top of the others – it sits perfectly well on top of them and shows up as itself. Since it’s a transparent with green glitter, I wasn’t sure if it would stay dense or not.

13.12.30_MarbledNailDecals_02

I was really pleased with the orange one! It made such smooth dots that I didn’t marble it at all since it looked great as was. It is Topshop’s Venus Fly Trap (the lime), Stage Dive (the orange) and Pillar Box (red). Many thanks to my boyfriend for venturing into Topshop to get those! I didn’t even know they did a range of nail stuff, not been in there in years.

I was in two minds about the purple one – the colours bled a lot so you didn’t get clear edges, so I did fairly extreme marbling by dragging lines in all directions to get something that wasn’t too muddy. I tried using that one first, and it works really well! It was Revlon Chroma Chameleon Aquamarine, which is a colour-shifting blue to light purple metallic polish, plus Jess Moonflower and Breathless. Moonflower is a midnight blue satiny colour, and Breathless is a blue-pinky holographic. Looks bluish in the bottle, made all the pink glitter in the decal.

I decided to name this combo Midnight Garden because there are some decidedly foliage-like sections.

13.12.30_MarbledNailDecals_NightGarden_01

13.12.30_MarbledNailDecals_NightGarden_02

I did three nails per hand, over Collection 2000 Hot Looks Button Moon, which is a pale wintry blue. ‘Scuse edges, etc etc. Not quite at the professional finish stage yet!

The other nails are two layers of the aquamarine with one layer of Miss Sporty Sparkle Touch 889, which is apparently called Amethyst Dust – no name on bottle. Small pink, blue, red, silver and amethyst glitter. One layer is just a little bit of glitter. That’s what I had on before, so just left it on those nails as the base colour was the same.

I don’t have any fancy top or base coats as yet, so have just been using Collection 2000’s maxiflex clear. Being flexible, it’s easily dented and doesn’t stay quite as shiny as I would like.

Also, after a few days I had the rather disconcerting experience of having all layers of polish on my first finger fall off together! Look down, no polish at all on that nail anymore. I think I much have caught an edge on something and then the whole thing just came straight off, but without enough of a tug for me to notice as it happened. I tried putting one back on and it’s staying there as well as the others for the time being…

I’m keeping the rest of the decals sealed in a ziplock bag, so they hopefully won’t get too brittle.

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

1 Comment

52 earrings: #52 Verity

The last earring pair is done!

#52 Verity

13.12.26_E52_Verity_01

Copper wire-wrapping with two of my lampwork cylinder beads in green-blue with dark brownish gold frit, little hollow copper round beads at the top, and turquoise dangles that are not quite heart-shaped.

52 little things links
Craft Pimp Week 52 thread
• Linda of Earthshine Lampwork Bead and Jewellery Design: http://www.earth-shine.co.uk/
• Sue of BlueBoxStudio: http://www.blue-box-studio.blogspot.co.uk
• Jolene of Kitzbitz Art Glass: http://kitzbitzartglass.blogspot.co.uk

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Leave a comment

%d bloggers like this: