Posts Tagged dots
New colours to test! These are the three that I picked out first, pretty autumnal opaques.
Moccasin is the milky mocha brown, Autumn is the peach, and Eucalyptus is the muted green.
They don’t strike differently when making multiple spacers – all very uniform colours.
This Moccasin gremlin has a little bit of Autumn on the shoulder – I wanted to see how much they stood out against each other. Moccasin was nice and smooth to work with.
Autumn is a really lovely colour (there are not many opaque peaches!). It does have tiny micro-bubbles that come to the surface, pop, and leave little marks. These did not show up in the spacers, but do in the gremlin, particularly on the back. (There are a few on the front too but they are less obvious). The rod was also fairly shocky for me – it shot off a number of hollow cone shapes when returning the rod to the flame (rather than solid chunks, which is more usual).
Back showing pits from micro-bubbles.
Eucalyptus is a faded blue-tinged green. As a sculpture there’s a tiny bit of streaking in the colour on the flatter expanses, but not much at all.
I then made some rounds to test reactions. These are all over cores of Effetre 006 clear to make them go further. This pic has them in pairs, moccasin and autumn bases with the same treatment (apart from the rightmost two, which are moccasin bases with dots of autumn or eucalyptus).
Here are all the moccasin bases together.
1) Two wraps of fine silver wire. It has darkened where the wire has actually melted in, but not fumed the rest of the bead.
2) Copper green dots. They have a crisp line round the edges and the copper green itself has greyed up a little (haven’t soaked these in anything to remove it) but there’s not much else going on.
3) Covered in fine silver leaf! This has a greenish sheen.
4) Autumn dots. This has made some streaks in the moccasin underneath, otherwise clean dots.
5) Eucalyptus dots. Very smooth join between the colours – nothing has spread or shrunk.
The autumn bases:
1) Two wraps of silver wire. Again very little fuming.
2) Copper green dots. Same effect as moccasin.
3) Fine silver leaf – colour is brownish as expected.
So, moccasin and autumn are two fairly unreactive colours that keep their original look and smoothness most of the time. Should test for silver glass bases.
Mahogany is a really nice warm opaque brown, that is properly brown rather than dark red.
I used Tiger Lily for the pumpkins on this gremlin, and you can see that the opacity varied a lot. Some of the pumpkin segments stayed very transparent.
These bicones have a base of Mahogany, with a wrap of Poppy round the centre, and the largest has a thin wrap of Tiger Lily on top of that. This was in the same sessions as the gremlins, so I didn’t actually know they weren’t opaque at that point! Tiger Lily especially looks pretty opaque in the rod. So the result is rather more subtle than I was expecting.
Cobblestone is a nice slightly brownish grey. Fairly uniform and non-streaky here.
I used Double Helix Okeanos on top of Cobblestone here (unreduced), and got some fab colours! The Cobblestone has fumed darker and browner around the dots especially. Showing both sides, as one is bluer and one greener.
I decided to do more combos with Mahogany. These are small rounds with a tiny core of clear, to make my rod of Mahogany go further. Definitely a true opaque! I wrapped one in fine silver wire, the next has a wrap of SIS, then Cobblestone dots, a spiral of black, and finally spreading dots of Reichenbach Kermit (a special: SPL1000).
I did the same thing with Cobblestone, here you go:
They’re both nice colours to use like this, and look great with each other, both staying crisp in the dots. They are both somewhat reactive with the silver, ivory and green, but not overwhelmingly so.
• Sinful Colors Cloud 9 (orange, might be 2 coats?)
• Sinful Colors Nail Art Time Off (black)
• Seche Vite top coat
I adore any and all sparkly oranges, and Cloud 9 is a fab one. I can’t remember whether I did 2 coats here, as it’s quite sheer. I did zigzags and dots with the Time Off black. Didn’t entirely get on with Seche Vite though, as it started peeling after a few days. I’ll have to try again with another top coat sometime :)
• Revlon Sunshine Sparkle
• Rimmel Stormy Skies
• Seche Vite top coat
Sunshine Sparkle is quite a thin, runny polish, in a creamy yellow with a bit of sparkle that is more evident in the bottle than on the nail. (More coats might show it more, I guess). This was 2 coats. I’m not fussed about the not hugely sparkly nature of it, because I love this shade of yellow. (It is paler than both the other yellow colours I have used recently). Stormy Skies is a nice steel blue colour that I did lines, wiggles and dots with. If I was doing beads, definitely Lauscha dark teal (aka steel blue). Could be tricky doing the stringer work, since that is a very spreading colour. Might need encasing in clear first, or leaving raised.
I was impressed, this one lasted 8 days without too much chipping. I wore it to Flame Off because I didn’t have time to do any flame designs, so I was packing glass and beads, hefting them on and off the train, unpacking at Uttoxeter… then repeat in reverse to get them home again! So this combo gets on with Seche Vite just fine.
I have trimmed my nails for a bit of a change since these – new job, new keyboard, etc etc…
Last week’s nails.
• Revlon white (part of a neon duo set)
• Collection 2000 Hot Looks – Big Hair (the red)
• Pretty – Scatter effect (black dots in whitish grey)
• Sinful Colors Time Off (nail art black)
• Seche Vite top coat
I like the way this came out. I wanted something to try out the scatter polish with. It needs a base under it because it is a very translucent whitish grey with the little black dots in it. It isn’t hugely saturated with glitter either, so you get quite a thick layer of polish with not a great deal of dots, so to layer it up itself to opaque would be tricky.
Big Hair is a lovely bright red that I like a lot.
The Sinful Colors nail art black was a very handy find, also in Poundland. I didn’t actually know it was a nail art one when buying it, I was just after any black, and the label was printed in black… The brush is really nice – very long and thin and great for making the lines.
Oh and this last one was from before. The beads are ornate bicones in a nice creamy coloured base with flame shards applied. The nail polish was Revlon’s Chroma Chameleon aquamarine, which has lilacs at some angles. I put Chit Chat Ariel on top, which is another of Poundland’s. Very pretty blue-aqua hex glitter in two sizes, though again there’s a lot of thick base polish and the glitter’s not so saturated. This was two coats, with Seche Vite stuck on top to get it to actually dry – the clear base is a very jelly one. Still pretty, just don’t try and get full glitter coverage with these!
I did have a go at making these beads, based on my Dotty Fruit Salad Nail Art post.
The colours were a bit tricky.
I started off using Effetre pastel yellow and coral. The smaller rightmost tab used these colours and came out fine, but in the two larger beads both the yellow and the coral struck more towards orange, meaning that the colours weren’t so distinct. So I put the beads back in the kiln the next day and went over them again, this time in dark yellow. The dark yellow’s a little brighter and also not quite as opaque in the dots, so there are some smeary-looking areas.
Both yellows are really too bright if I wanted to match the nail polish better. I do have some Vetrofond banana cream, which can be pale but is also a striking colour (though definitely doesn’t go orange). Or I was thinking of mixing yellow and white and seeing if that gave me what I was after. It’s a difficult one!
Inspired by Nuthin’ But A Nail Thing’s polka dot tutorial.
I went for some nice bright spring and summery colours. (Also, I might have to make beads in these colours, because they are rather nice. Not sure if I have a coral that is this pink though, I don’t usually use coral).
Dotty Fruit Salad
I used alternating base colours for my nails.
• Collection 2000 Lemon Soda
• Collection 2000 Fruit Salad
Lemon Soda is a similar colour to Miss Sporty’s Popcorn, but a warmer shade. Fruit Salad is a coral pink. They’re both pretty opaque, which is good for this. They are also both fast drying, which is very handy when you are layering lots of dots!
I used Seche Vite as a top coat because you want something fairly thick to go over the layers of dots. Though it may just be me, but it seems to be shrinking even faster than usual over these colours.
I used a dotting tool – it has one larger round steel ball end and one smaller. If you don’t have one, then anything with a rounded end works. I have used the end of a mandrel before, and a toothpick should do for small dots. Brushes are bad for making dots because they give you splodges instead.
Thumbs! (I trimmed my thumbnails down before they caught on anything, they were getting slightly impractical. As a nail biter, it is a novelty for my nails to get too long). See also experimenting with my camera’s timing option for the two-hand pics.
And one of each hand. The colours make me happy.
I should find a matte top coat sometime, because I think they would also look awesome frosted. I have three matte polishes, which I was unsure about at first, but I do really like the finish.
I’ve been sent some more CiM limited editions to test! I believe some if not all of these will be available in the UK fairly shortly.
Jellyfish is a colour-shifting lavender. It looks bluer under halogens and pinker under incandescents or sunlight.
It is also a very close match in colour to Effetre dark lavender, which is becoming increasingly hard to get hold of since Effetre haven’t made any new batches in a while. The round bead is a jellyfish core, then Double Helix psyche and encased in jellyfish. I can’t say whether it’s the same effect as you get from dark lavender and psyche (anyone around who uses that combo often? I’m still bad at keeping psyche reduction under encasement), but the electric blues from the psyche are pretty good, and if you want a dark lavender-alike for the colour on its own, then this would definitely be up your street.
A lovely deep teal blue.
Sadly, it seems to have incompatibility issues when encasing white, which is a real shame because the combo looks great. These two are Effetre white and you can see multiple cracks.
The next day I made another two, one with peace and another with Effetre just to make sure I hadn’t done something stupid. In this case, the one with peace has the crack, running into the dot, centre right from the top of the bead – the Effetre hadn’t yet at the time of taking this photo, but I wouldn’t be at all surprised if one turns up in a few days. Incidentally, you can see the difference in density between the peace and Effetre white dots – peace is less bright and has more noticeable rings inside the dots.
The heart is marine over Effetre white, gravity swirled. Even with the colour this thin, there are cracks (and very definitely incompatibility ones, at that).
From another angle. The crack comes down from partway through the top lobe, then changes direction towards us. That ain’t thermal.
I’ll need to try it over a few other things – I am guessing light opaques like dirty martini may be ok to use as a base as that’s a bit stiffer. Still a shame!
A pretty transparent green. I haven’t put it side-by-side with any of the other greens yet.
Lauscha have made a new batch of SNT 219, the more transparent of their reds. I was sent a sample to test, and here are the results.
Firstly, this is an absolutely gorgeous red. The 05/13 is a darker colour than the 02/13 batch and it is a true transparent. I made a plain lentil bead first, and there is no mistiness or opacity developing at all. (The last batch began to go a bit misty). New lentil is in the bottom left.
You can see that in colour it is more like a transparent version of the old SNT 220 I have, while the other two lentils are a brighter red. The clarity and depth of colour is beautiful.
I did some layered dots: here we have a base of red, tehn dots in white and red. By the light shining through on the bottom right you can see that this bead is still transparent (it is harder to see that on this type of bead because the opaque dots block the light). You can see the dots show as orange when used so thinly and do not spread quite so much as the brighter reds. The dots struck and unstruck as I added more layers: it isn’t hard to strike them at all and in larger amounts no deliberate striking is needed.
I made two dotty ladybird beads – these have a core of SNT 219, encased in SNT 100 clear and black dots on the surface. You can see they are definitely still transparent. I then etched them to give a nice inner glow.
I made a rose to compare with the others. The difference in transparency is huge! This is still a true transparent. The edges of the outer petals have an orange cast – this is fairly typical since the glass is thinner there and is not worked for long. The heart of the rose shows as the darker red.
Finally, the new rose on its own!
I love this colour. Like all the Lauscha transparent reds, it doesn’t go brown when worked for a while and it’s also very easy to strike. And it has the bonus of being truly transparent!
I did make a few more beads with the reds at the weekend.
These lentils definitely illustrate the difference between the reds! I should have done them first, probably, but was having fun with the other designs. The difference in transparency between the new SNT 220 and SNT 219 is much more obvious here. They’re basically the same colour, but the 219 is far more transparent. I included the old SNT 220 for comparison.
Here I added a rose and stacked dot bead made from the old SNT 220. Again, big difference. The dots on white are darker and crisper, and the rose petals, while still transparent at this thickness, are noticeably less transparent than the other two. (I love how this rose has come out – am getting better with the shaping!)
Lauscha sent me two new batches of reds to test. We have SNT 220 (07/02/13 batch) and SNT 219 (11/02/13 batch). I also have an older batch of SNT 220 that I included for comparison.
Here’s a nice labelled picture of them all. You can see that both new batches are fairly similar at a glance, and both are oranger and more transparent than the darker, tending-to-translucent old SNT 220. (I do very much like the old batch – it is similar to CiM maraschino in that it is semi-opaque when used thickly, giving a lovely depth of colour).
I’ll go over each type of bead side-by-side now.
First we have the spacers. I did not attempt any deliberate striking of these as I wanted to see whether they were auto-striking or needed a little more effort. So I just made four spacers on each mandrel and put them in the kiln. I was surprised how unstruck the SNT 219 ones came out, because they appeared darker when I put them in the kiln.
Verdict: unlike the old SNT 220, they definitely need to be deliberately struck. From the later beads, they don’t seem difficult to strike, but for spacers the attention needs to be paid.
These two beads were rounded off in a bead roller and have a wrap of Double Helix psyche, heavily reduced. (Excuse the iffy end!) This was the darkest red I got out of either colour. Both base beads are still transparent, though – you can see into them. The difference in outlines round the psyche is may just be due to the way it was melted in, rather than the base – it’s difficult to tell without further testing.
These two little beads show how they stand up to being layered. I used Effetre white to make stacked dots. The new SNT 220 came out darker than the SNT 219, which is very orange in the dots. Both had a tendency to unstrike between layers – the SNT 219 was trickier to stay struck at the end.
Finally, I made a pair of sculptural roses to see how they behaved when repeatedly heated and cooled, since these go in and out of the flame repeatedly as I add each petal. Both roses remained mostly transparent – the SNT 220 has a little cloudiness whereas the SNT 219 is almost perfectly transparent. The SNT 219 has stayed a little less struck in the centre and at the outer edges of some petals, which is a lovely effect in this kind of bead. Both are still orange-tinted reds.
Both of these are very nice reds. There was no tendency to go brown in either of them. I’d probably pick one rather than both as they’re quite similar, it’s just tricky to choose which one! The 219 is lovely as a rose while the 220 is better in dots and probably marginally easier to strike.
For further testing, I plan to make the same beads with my old SNT 220, and to make a plain lentil bead in all three of the reds. I may make a heart in the two new reds too.