Posts Tagged gremlin
These were the new CiM limited edition colours out in spring 2016. I am somewhat behind on writing this post as Flame Off happened…
Also, I got into fountain pens recently, and decided to use my post to practise my italic handwriting so that I got both the thing I had to do and the thing I wanted to do done. Pics thereof at the bottom.
This is a pale peachy brown opalino that can develop mottled striations on the surface. I made four spacers and etched two of them; they do etch and it makes the striations more visible.
I made a pair of rounds with 006 clear cores. One has a band of silvered ivory around the centre, and the other has a couple of wraps of fine silver wire, melted in so it balls up. There’s a bit of brown fuming from the silver – not a huge amount. The SIS wrap has a clearly demarcated edge and has not spread a great deal.
I made a sculptural gremlin (with bunny ears – could do with a redesign!) with a clear core. It is opaque enough not to have the teeth show through the lips, which is a disconcerting look when it happens. The striations are easiest to see on the body, which is worked longest, but there are also a couple of larger dark areas on the ears.
I did a little silver glass testing. First is a bead with a clear core, encased in Velveteen, with a stripe of Double Helix boreas. This was reduced (oxy down) and encased. There’s some darker brown fuming and the boreas is a lovely bright iridescent purple with some mottling.
The second silver glass bead has okeanos instead, again reduced. It has ended up with a variety of colours, from yellow-green to light turquoise to deep blue, again with interior mottling. The stripe has remained thin and not expanded. In the centre of the bead, there is a pronounced dark line at the edge of the silver glass, bordered with a light greenish and the deep blue pushed into the centre of the stripe.
Toto is a soft milky brown with a touch of grey. My spacers came out a uniform colour. The etched pair look softer and lighter.
This pair of rounds have cores of 006 clear encased in Toto. One has a wrap of silvered ivory stringer which has spread and fuzzed at the edges. The surface has some darker grey areas. The second bead has two wraps of fine silver wire around the centre, melted in. It has fumed a dark brown line where the silver has melted in.
My sculptural gremlin is a fairly uniform colour on the front – it has some of the darker grey visible on the back and the soles of the feet, which are cooled swiftly when I flatten them.
Silver glass beads: core of clear, encased in Toto, spiral of silver glass which is reduced and encased in clear. The first bead uses boreas, which has not come out well – it is mostly a greenish brown with only the slightest patch of iridescent purple. The base is visible as a dark brown next to the boreas. The okeanos came out much better and has struck to blue-purples with green at the ends. The Toto shows through as a warmer brown with separation lines where it meets the okeanos.
Allspice is a fairly dark amber brown opalino. Used on its own, the spacers are a lovely warm and deep colour. The etched spacers have a nice inner glow.
The pair of rounds with cores of 006 clear and surface decoration have a wrap of silvered ivory stringer and a couple of wraps of fine silver wire. The SIS has not spread much and has sharply defined edges. The silver has a small dark outline immediately adjacent. These beads both have some mottling in the surface of the Allspice. (So do the spacers a little, but it isn’t so evident to the naked eye).
In my sculptural gremlin, the Allspice is just thick enough for the white of the teeth not to show through. There is only visible surface mottling on the back.
In my silver glass beads, the wraps did not spread and the edges and swallowed, giving very narrow bands. These beads have a core of clear, encased in Allspice, a spiral of silver glass, reduced and encased in clear. The Allspice has visible mottling. The boreas has a shiny band of purple surrounded by a darker brown – the same colour as the mottles. The okeanos has narrow very dark edges surrounding the centre stripe with ranges from brighter to darker blue, with some lime green near the holes.
For anyone interested in fountain pens.
Here is my normal handwriting, where I composed the text. I can write reasonably straight without guides.
These were written with a recently-acquired Osmiroid 75 fountain pen with an italic extra fine straight nib. The ink is whatever was in the pen – I’d just added enough water to get it going and decided to write it empty because I just discovered piston fillers take forever to clean out by sucking up and expelling water… You can see it ran out during the third composition – I’d added more water but it was too faint by then so I finished cleaning it.
Here’s the first go – this was still with the old ink. I’d printed out some guide paper and this was the first time I’d used it. I was trying to get it all on one sheet (and failed) hence the lack of paragraph spacing. I was also putting one letter in each grid box, meaning my spacing is rather odd – the ‘m’s are very squished and some words are over-expanded. I used this calligraphy paper PDF generator printed out on my normal printer paper.
I aso realised I hadn’t practised capitals at all…
Second post: ink had run out so I refilled with Diamine indigo. The two look closer in the pics than they should – the original ink was a nice blue/blue-black and indigo has more of a steel grey tint in it. This time I used slightly smaller paper – 0.5 rather than 0.6mm nib size, and with halfway vertical guides too. I mostly ignored the guide boxes this time, just using them to go vaguely in the right direction and not for spacing. Also less obvious in the photo, it starts out with wetter writing so the letters are darker, then for the rest my writing angle must have changed, as I have drier writing and it also gets bigger. That was partly the fault of writing without bright enough light coming from the right direction, as I couldn’t always see the guidelines… The part at the bottom is darker and smaller again. I couldn’t work out how to write the correct s at that size – it’s supposed to be a narrow letter and it was very difficult not to write it wider.
Third: I went back to the bigger size but kept the extra verticals. It’s looking a bit better, though still various irregularities.
Some practise, may also show the ink colour difference a little.
Big practice, back with the Lamy Joy and 1.9mm nib. I managed the s shape once or twice at this size!
Continuing my writeup of the September batch of new CiM colours, here are a pair of opaque greens: Ogre and Leaf Men.
Ogre was a remake of Tortoise that came out an entirely different shade – I must say, I love it more than Tortoise. The light green and warm brown it develops are a lovely autumnal combo, cleaner than the purple that Tortoise gets.
I took a picture on the mandrel so you can see how the spacers struck. (Making more than three spacers of this size on a mandrel does not work for me – if I do more and let the early ones cool, one or two will crack, no matter how careful I am not to let the flame brush the first ones. So I do the ‘keep all three warm’ method and they survive). On the mandrel with three Ogre beads, the one nearest the end went into the kiln a light grey-blue, which is the colour this looks when not struck at all – it went green in the kiln.
Ogre gremlin on its own: multiple strikings on areas has given the pinkier brown.
Ogre and Leaf Men spacers side-by-size. Ogre is lovely and soft etched.
Leaf Men is streaky as you would expect from green and nicely… leafy. Not bright, not olive.
Leaf Men gremlin:
This is a gorgeous colour – a bluish grey that isn’t entirely opaque. CiM have it described as an opalino – it’s less opalino than some. From the rod you assume it’s opaque, when working it remains looking surprisingly transparent, then when it comes out you have a slight softness to the surface (and a lot of lovely mottling, for me anyway!)
Spacers: the right two are etched. The darker spacers had more glass added right at the end and not struck so much – it goes lighter, bluer and more opaque the more it is worked.
The gremlin has come out similarly: not very much difference from the longer working time – the lips are lighter and the mottling is less visible on them.
This egg got plenty of mottling while being worked. The stripe is Effetre white, which has feathered into the grey and started swallowing the thin caboose stripe. The dots are tortoise and have kept crisp edges though have reacted in the centres. (French grey is an excellent egg colour! Adds all the interest itself).
I know a lot of people were intrigued by this one! Described as a blue canyon de chelly and with the ability to strike different shades.
My spacers came out different shades, but mostly on the green side. Etches fine and is pretty that way.
My gremlin has more variation, with that blue-purple that came out in the middle of the lips! The eyelid tends a little more to blue as well.
This needs testing with silver glass as well, to see what happens there.
This egg is a base of caboose (no devit issues this time) over 006 with tortoise dots – they’ve stayed lovely and sharp on top, without very much variation.
Two purples here – both a similar colour but with different saturations. They’re both described by CiM as moonstones, so have a little bit of mistiness and aren’t entirely transparent.
The two spacers on the right are etched – you can see they didn’t etch well in the time I left them in, when it was fine for the opaques coming later. This wasn’t entirely surprising, as it tends to happen with moonstones and more transparent opalinos. In hand you can see more easily the slight mistiness of the moonstone.
I made a gremlin – the body has a core of clear, so lightening it up a bit. This gremlin has been experimenting with cosmetics! I added some Gaffer purpur frit on the lips to prevent the teeth showing through, because this colour isn’t dark enough to block that.
This egg has a stripe of Aladdin round the centre – that was a couple of wraps, allowed to melt down and spread. It’s a low saturation with a shadowy edge. (The other colours are caboose and chamomile – chamomile is yellower over the white, and something in the heating and rolling of the surface has made caboose misbehave somewhat with slight devit).
The more saturated moonstone. I had a thicker rod of this, which may have had something to do with it, but I found this one pretty shocky and kept losing chunks when I was carefully rewarming it. It seems to lose heat relatively quickly too, so make sure you’re keeping your bead warm.
Boysenberry again doesn’t etch well, and is really dark when used as spacers. You can still tell they’re purple rather than black, but only just. It’s a good berry colour.
This gremlin again has a clear core, and you can see slightly that it lightens the body. No problem with being able to see through the lips here!
This egg is Effetre white with small and large dots of boysenberry, allowed to move with the heating and shaping. You can see the difference in saturation between the different dot types – the small ones have spread a lot more – and the white has formed separation lines between the dots.
Here’s the two colours side-by-side, so you can see the difference in saturation.
Mahogany is a really nice warm opaque brown, that is properly brown rather than dark red.
I used Tiger Lily for the pumpkins on this gremlin, and you can see that the opacity varied a lot. Some of the pumpkin segments stayed very transparent.
These bicones have a base of Mahogany, with a wrap of Poppy round the centre, and the largest has a thin wrap of Tiger Lily on top of that. This was in the same sessions as the gremlins, so I didn’t actually know they weren’t opaque at that point! Tiger Lily especially looks pretty opaque in the rod. So the result is rather more subtle than I was expecting.
Cobblestone is a nice slightly brownish grey. Fairly uniform and non-streaky here.
I used Double Helix Okeanos on top of Cobblestone here (unreduced), and got some fab colours! The Cobblestone has fumed darker and browner around the dots especially. Showing both sides, as one is bluer and one greener.
I decided to do more combos with Mahogany. These are small rounds with a tiny core of clear, to make my rod of Mahogany go further. Definitely a true opaque! I wrapped one in fine silver wire, the next has a wrap of SIS, then Cobblestone dots, a spiral of black, and finally spreading dots of Reichenbach Kermit (a special: SPL1000).
I did the same thing with Cobblestone, here you go:
They’re both nice colours to use like this, and look great with each other, both staying crisp in the dots. They are both somewhat reactive with the silver, ivory and green, but not overwhelmingly so.
In the limited edition reds and oranges section, I have three transparents and two opaques.
Orange Crush, Firecracker and Rudolph
I left these trios of spacers on the mandrel so you could see what the striking is like. I deliberately struck all three colours, which was not difficult. Orange Crush is an orange that strikes from transparent to misty. The bottom of the furthest out bead is transparent while the top is cloudy.
Firecracker is a medium light red with orange tones – you can see that the end spacer is less struck and much more orange.
Rudolph is a true red, and has less colour variation in striking. The end bead is mistier but is still red.
I also made lentil beads and small dotty rounds which have a core of Effetre white encased in the colour and then white dots. You can see from the lentils that both the reds go quite opaque, while orange crush has streaky translucent and transparent areas.
One of the orange crush spacers cracked on one end – that end had a thicker layer of orange and you can see that it went more opaque and lighter than the other bead – may have had something to do with it?
CiM Ocher and Sunset
Ocher is CiM’s spelling, I would normally write ochre :p
Ocher is a greenish mustardy yellow. Sunset is an orange coral type of colour. I could see Sunset striking as I worked, but it doesn’t really seem to unstrike again so I got a more uniform colour than I was expecting.
You can see in the spacers that ocher is bit streaky and the sunset is pretty uniform even as spacers.
I made a gremlin out of each to see how they did sculpturally – there is still variation visible in the ocher. The only lighter part of the sunset gremlin was the soles of its feet, which you obviously can’t see here! They are done at the very end. I used marine for the little heart on the ocher gremlin, and the sunset one has a scar and an awesome little skull murrini by Jolene Wolfe (Kitzbitz Art Glass).
I did some random thin stringer trails over a background of Effetre black. You can see a little bit of colour variation in the sunset dots, and also that at this thinness they aren’t entirely opaque, particularly the ocher.
Last of all, I did some tiny ribbed cylinder beads with ocher, sunset and Effetre dark sky blue. Ocher and the dark sky blue react together a little to give a dark out line, while sunset doesn’t. What I find interesting here is how different the ocher looks with other colours next to it – it is much yellower when alongside the sunset. Dark sky blue on top of sunset has a tendency to fuzz out and spread at the edges instead of having a sharp line.
I used dark sky blue rather than turquoise as it tends to grey up less. I did give them a bath in Lime & Grime to remove any that there was.