Posts Tagged gremlins
New colours to test! These are the three that I picked out first, pretty autumnal opaques.
Moccasin is the milky mocha brown, Autumn is the peach, and Eucalyptus is the muted green.
They don’t strike differently when making multiple spacers – all very uniform colours.
This Moccasin gremlin has a little bit of Autumn on the shoulder – I wanted to see how much they stood out against each other. Moccasin was nice and smooth to work with.
Autumn is a really lovely colour (there are not many opaque peaches!). It does have tiny micro-bubbles that come to the surface, pop, and leave little marks. These did not show up in the spacers, but do in the gremlin, particularly on the back. (There are a few on the front too but they are less obvious). The rod was also fairly shocky for me – it shot off a number of hollow cone shapes when returning the rod to the flame (rather than solid chunks, which is more usual).
Back showing pits from micro-bubbles.
Eucalyptus is a faded blue-tinged green. As a sculpture there’s a tiny bit of streaking in the colour on the flatter expanses, but not much at all.
I then made some rounds to test reactions. These are all over cores of Effetre 006 clear to make them go further. This pic has them in pairs, moccasin and autumn bases with the same treatment (apart from the rightmost two, which are moccasin bases with dots of autumn or eucalyptus).
Here are all the moccasin bases together.
1) Two wraps of fine silver wire. It has darkened where the wire has actually melted in, but not fumed the rest of the bead.
2) Copper green dots. They have a crisp line round the edges and the copper green itself has greyed up a little (haven’t soaked these in anything to remove it) but there’s not much else going on.
3) Covered in fine silver leaf! This has a greenish sheen.
4) Autumn dots. This has made some streaks in the moccasin underneath, otherwise clean dots.
5) Eucalyptus dots. Very smooth join between the colours – nothing has spread or shrunk.
The autumn bases:
1) Two wraps of silver wire. Again very little fuming.
2) Copper green dots. Same effect as moccasin.
3) Fine silver leaf – colour is brownish as expected.
So, moccasin and autumn are two fairly unreactive colours that keep their original look and smoothness most of the time. Should test for silver glass bases.
Mahogany is a really nice warm opaque brown, that is properly brown rather than dark red.
I used Tiger Lily for the pumpkins on this gremlin, and you can see that the opacity varied a lot. Some of the pumpkin segments stayed very transparent.
These bicones have a base of Mahogany, with a wrap of Poppy round the centre, and the largest has a thin wrap of Tiger Lily on top of that. This was in the same sessions as the gremlins, so I didn’t actually know they weren’t opaque at that point! Tiger Lily especially looks pretty opaque in the rod. So the result is rather more subtle than I was expecting.
Cobblestone is a nice slightly brownish grey. Fairly uniform and non-streaky here.
I used Double Helix Okeanos on top of Cobblestone here (unreduced), and got some fab colours! The Cobblestone has fumed darker and browner around the dots especially. Showing both sides, as one is bluer and one greener.
I decided to do more combos with Mahogany. These are small rounds with a tiny core of clear, to make my rod of Mahogany go further. Definitely a true opaque! I wrapped one in fine silver wire, the next has a wrap of SIS, then Cobblestone dots, a spiral of black, and finally spreading dots of Reichenbach Kermit (a special: SPL1000).
I did the same thing with Cobblestone, here you go:
They’re both nice colours to use like this, and look great with each other, both staying crisp in the dots. They are both somewhat reactive with the silver, ivory and green, but not overwhelmingly so.
I am doing some colour testing for Lauscha. Here we’ve got a new batch of SNT 150 orange transparent vs the 13/02/12 batch (*cough* which I have for sale on Lauscha.co.uk *cough*).
The new 08/12 orange is darker and transparent in the rod (not that you can see that in the photo – it is, though!), whereas the 13/02/12 batch is a sunnier orange, translucent and ringed.
Here’s a photo showing everything from both batches.
I made three spacers from the 08/12 orange – I’ve left them on the mandrel so you can see that this version is more sensitive to striking. They have stayed transparent, unlike the 13/02/12 spacers. The yellow spacer was the last one made and is unstruck. The centre bead received most heating and cooling, and is the darkest. With the 13/02/12 batch, you can see the spacers are not transparent (one is etched). You can see a little way into the surface but not all the way through.
I went on to make hollow pumpkins from both oranges. Quite a lot of heating and cooling goes on here: the 08/12 batch has struck deeply and quite uniformly. If you hold it up to the light, you can vaguely see inside, but only just. It stayed transparent just next to the holes, but not further out. The 13/02/12 batch is streakier and has transparent streaks you can see into. It also has a rather nice effect where it is yellower in the grooves and blushes oranger on the face of each segment.
The 08/12 batch is more like CiM clockwork in colour, though does not go misty like that can.
Edit: Here are a couple of gremlins I made. I’ve shown the backs too so you can see that the 08/12 batch has some transparency left here – you can see the mandrel line.
Note: the lips and eyelids are an egg yolk-coloured batch of Effetre opaque dark yellow. I used that instead to avoid having any white show through them. On the 13/02/12 gremlin, the lips aren’t the same colour as the body, but my camera isn’t picking that up. (These oranges are tricky to photograph correctly in the first place, because they’re so bright the camera just completely over-saturates them and I have to fiddle about with my colour balance to get them looking as they do).