Posts Tagged grey
Here are some more bags for Beads of Courage that I made in October.
Two in green camo-print and another red car bag.
Here we have a swan, a blue and peach swirly feathery design (I have a fair bit of that, in odd-shaped long thin pieces – it’s an 80s possibly-wax-print fabric), and a gold on beige patterned bag. I really love the way that one looks with the burnt orange I used to line it.
Rearranged so you can see the feathery one.
I’ve just received some Designers Guild kids range samplers (also Scrapstore), and there are some really lovely and cute pieces in there, so I will be making bags from those next.
I also made myself a new pincushion – since I have two sewing machines now, I keep finding my pincushion is at the wrong one… (My current pincushion is one I made at primary school – two squares of felt hand-sewn together). This is a Scrapstore fabric that I’m hoarding somewhat since I love the design, suns and planets on red – I decided to use a little bit of it to make something for me.
I stuffed it with thread offcuts – I keep those along with trimmed frayed edges and other tiny little unusable scraps in a box for this kind of thing.
I also did a little experimenting with fabric paints – the ones I used here are Pebeo paints, but I also have medium to add to my normal acrylics, and I have some Procion dyes. Paint sits on top of the fabric so makes it stiffer – I thought of using dye for most of it and then possibly adding thin lines for illustration with paint, if I want to illustrate it. I was just doodling with this to see how the paint worked. (White fabric also from the Scrapstore). The frame is a quilting hoop that is very handy for this – I noticed that The Works had small hoops when I was there, so got a pair of those too for smaller pieces of fabric.
This is a gorgeous colour – a bluish grey that isn’t entirely opaque. CiM have it described as an opalino – it’s less opalino than some. From the rod you assume it’s opaque, when working it remains looking surprisingly transparent, then when it comes out you have a slight softness to the surface (and a lot of lovely mottling, for me anyway!)
Spacers: the right two are etched. The darker spacers had more glass added right at the end and not struck so much – it goes lighter, bluer and more opaque the more it is worked.
The gremlin has come out similarly: not very much difference from the longer working time – the lips are lighter and the mottling is less visible on them.
This egg got plenty of mottling while being worked. The stripe is Effetre white, which has feathered into the grey and started swallowing the thin caboose stripe. The dots are tortoise and have kept crisp edges though have reacted in the centres. (French grey is an excellent egg colour! Adds all the interest itself).
I know a lot of people were intrigued by this one! Described as a blue canyon de chelly and with the ability to strike different shades.
My spacers came out different shades, but mostly on the green side. Etches fine and is pretty that way.
My gremlin has more variation, with that blue-purple that came out in the middle of the lips! The eyelid tends a little more to blue as well.
This needs testing with silver glass as well, to see what happens there.
This egg is a base of caboose (no devit issues this time) over 006 with tortoise dots – they’ve stayed lovely and sharp on top, without very much variation.
Mahogany is a really nice warm opaque brown, that is properly brown rather than dark red.
I used Tiger Lily for the pumpkins on this gremlin, and you can see that the opacity varied a lot. Some of the pumpkin segments stayed very transparent.
These bicones have a base of Mahogany, with a wrap of Poppy round the centre, and the largest has a thin wrap of Tiger Lily on top of that. This was in the same sessions as the gremlins, so I didn’t actually know they weren’t opaque at that point! Tiger Lily especially looks pretty opaque in the rod. So the result is rather more subtle than I was expecting.
Cobblestone is a nice slightly brownish grey. Fairly uniform and non-streaky here.
I used Double Helix Okeanos on top of Cobblestone here (unreduced), and got some fab colours! The Cobblestone has fumed darker and browner around the dots especially. Showing both sides, as one is bluer and one greener.
I decided to do more combos with Mahogany. These are small rounds with a tiny core of clear, to make my rod of Mahogany go further. Definitely a true opaque! I wrapped one in fine silver wire, the next has a wrap of SIS, then Cobblestone dots, a spiral of black, and finally spreading dots of Reichenbach Kermit (a special: SPL1000).
I did the same thing with Cobblestone, here you go:
They’re both nice colours to use like this, and look great with each other, both staying crisp in the dots. They are both somewhat reactive with the silver, ivory and green, but not overwhelmingly so.
This was another recycled/found and no-spend challenge.
“Using only found natural materials such as feathers, leaves, fir cones, twigs, whatever you can find in nature, make a wearable piece of art, such as a brooch, necklace, earrings, hair band, embellished hat, tiara etc.”
The thread for this Craft Pimp February 2014 challenge is here.
I have a small collection of beach pebbles I picked up at Brighton, so decided to use three of those. They’re a dark grey-brown-green and still quite glossy. I picked out a longer one for a pendant and two of roughly the same size for earrings. I used copper wire to wrap them securely, then patinated them with liver of sulphur until they were really black. I tumbled them to bring the copper back up to gunmetal, and hand-polished the top surfaces back some more.
The earwires are my niobium ones, which go well with antiqued copper. I hung the pendant on brown Greek leather cord.
We had to include a picture of it being worn, which is a bit tricky to photograph one’s self! So excuse the blurriness.
I cut small pieces off one of my earlier kumihimo braids to make these earrings, and wound them into figure 8s.
#41 Figure In Grey
This braid was done in sky blue, gold-beige and chocolate brown, and made with C-lon/K-lon thread rather than embroidery thread so is tougher and holds its shape better. (Embroidery thread is nice and soft). Because these were pieces from a longer braid, I bound all the ends quickly after cutting them – they held together pretty well without unravelling after cutting, though. I then put a pair of my lampwork big hole beads in mystic grey on to the braids. Mystic grey has something of a shampoo sheen to it. I formed them into circles, used a bit of fabri-tac to hold the ends together, left that overnight to harden, then re-bound the joined area. After that I gave them a twist into the figures of 8 and bound the join so they stay in shape.
I made the earwires in sterling silver. These are nice large, visible earrings, but are also very light.
52 little things links
• Craft Pimp Week 40 thread
• Linda of Earthshine Lampwork Bead and Jewellery Design: http://www.earth-shine.co.uk/
• Sue of BlueBoxStudio: http://www.blue-box-studio.blogspot.co.uk
• Jolene of Kitzbitz Art Glass: http://kitzbitzartglass.blogspot.co.uk
Here are the reds, oranges, pinks and neutralish colours.
Front to back: daffodil, alley cat, tandoori, bing, radio flyer.
Frangipani, antique lace, cake batter, musk melon and weimaraner.
Here are the pinks and neutrals all laid out.
Frangipani at the front, antique lace is the pink-tinged light colour, cake batter is the yellowish and musk melon the greenish. Weimaraner is a blue-tinged grey.
All three of the light colours are pretty, subtle, clean shades.
Frangipani was previously Unique Crocus-2. How much it opacifies varies by how much you cool and reheat it. It got some surface mottling which is rather pretty. If you don’t want it to do that, you may be able to avoid it by working cooler.
Weimaraner as spacers is a fairly uniform colour (remember the goblin brought out more dark lines from the sculpting). Blue-grey rather than green-grey or brown-grey.
Now for the reds. Bing is much more transparent, with some mistiness evident inside the spacers, but you can still see through to the mandrel hole. Radio flyer is a semi-opaque: you can’t see through it, but you can see just inside the surface, giving it a very glossy look. It is a somewhat deeper, cooler red than bing. The difference is a bit more obvious above than it is when they are put on a wire.
I will be making lentil beads from the striking colours, because that’s a better way to see how they look when heated and cooled more and in higher volume. I have a suspicion that Bing might become mistier still.
The oranges. Daffodil and alley cat both strike a little, even in spacer-sized beads so you can see some variation across the surface. Daffodil is a pretty yellowy orange and alley cat is exactly the right shade of marmalade for making cats! I like both of these a lot. (My camera does overdo the orangeness, so I had to adjust the colours in these a bit – they appear more accurate to me now).
Tandoori… well, it barely struck at all like this! So I will be making a lentil of it later. If you wanted an actual transparent yellow that isn’t misty or electric greenish, then keeping this barely struck covers that! I don’t know how easy that would be to do when you wanted it to happen, though…
As well as the lentils, I want to test various of the opaques with silver glass. And maybe break out the copper green.
I have some CiM to test!
This is the first half, covering the greens and blues. The next lot are reds, oranges, pinks and neutralish colours.
Here are the transparent/translucent greens and blues in rod form.
Front to back: aloe juice, absinthe, Tuscan teal, trade winds and neon blue.
These are the opaque green rods.
Goblin, shrubbery and mint chip.
I mostly did small plain beads for this pass of testing, just to see how the colours came out and how they were to work.
Aloe juice and absinthe
In small spacers, they looked very similar. Aloe juice is a very pretty transparent green, nice to work. Absinthe is an opal/translucent and it appears it takes a bit of effort to make it do that. It has the slightest hint of mistiness in the spacers I made, and is a tiny bit darker than the aloe juice, though that is more obvious when both are larger. Absinthe is also a much softer colour that likes to spread along the mandrel. It either doesn’t etch at all, or needs a lot longer in the etching liquid. The little spacer at the end was the etch attempt. Aloe juice etches well for a sea-glass look.
Tuscan teal and trade winds
Tuscan teal is a lovely deep teal, not too green, and is not so dark that you can’t use it on its own in spacers, but also looks great over white. (I am using Effetre white in all these). Etches fine. Trade winds is a very dark midnight denimy blue. I didn’t do plain spacers with this, they would have just looked dark. Again, looks great over white and etches.
Neon blue is similar to cobalt, but is a slightly different shade. It is surprisingly soft for such a saturated blue. Etching makes it seem very slightly purpler. It stands out very well on top of white. I am keeping an eye on these because one of the ones over white has a crack, but there was also a brief power cut when the kiln had nearly finished ramping down, so I can’t be certain if there’s any problem there. The second bead has no cracks yet, and I did an unphotographed test of it over CiM peace the next day too.
Mint chip, shrubbery and goblin
I like these greens sitting side by side like this! Mint chip is a beautiful pale opaque green. There have been a few of these from CiM with slightly different shades – sprout, for example, and I don’t have them side-by-side to compare right now. Mint chip goes by its name well – it is a pretty minty green, no yellow tinge. It also has a very smooth uniform colour, no darker lines.
Shrubbery is a mid, yellowish green. I wouldn’t quite call it an olive, but it’s getting there. It does have noticeable lines where the colour has been applied.
I like goblin a lot. It is a dark olive colour with dark lines that is deep and shiny on its own and softer when etched. Good for organics and leaf tones, I would think! The rod was a bit shocky though – if you look up at the rod photo, you can see it’s cracked just above the dark line where the most heated section stopped. When I was doing my sculptural bead below, I had to baby it back into the flame every time I picked it up again, or it was shocking off along there and losing a significant chunk of glass. I only had the one rod, so I can’t say whether this would happen with all of them.
Here’s a pic on side so you can see the streakiness or lack thereof better.
Then I had some fun and made some goblin beads! (Using my dragon eye murrini). These are grumpier than gremlins and have much bigger TEETH.
Goblin, shrubbery and Weimaraner (of which more next time). The colours are darker in places when worked like this: they go in and out of the flame a lot and have heat directed at specific areas, which brings out the darker lines. You can see a little bit of reduction here and there, particularly near goblin goblin’s eye. I like the gnarly look on these!