Posts Tagged limited edition
In the limited edition reds and oranges section, I have three transparents and two opaques.
Orange Crush, Firecracker and Rudolph
I left these trios of spacers on the mandrel so you could see what the striking is like. I deliberately struck all three colours, which was not difficult. Orange Crush is an orange that strikes from transparent to misty. The bottom of the furthest out bead is transparent while the top is cloudy.
Firecracker is a medium light red with orange tones – you can see that the end spacer is less struck and much more orange.
Rudolph is a true red, and has less colour variation in striking. The end bead is mistier but is still red.
I also made lentil beads and small dotty rounds which have a core of Effetre white encased in the colour and then white dots. You can see from the lentils that both the reds go quite opaque, while orange crush has streaky translucent and transparent areas.
One of the orange crush spacers cracked on one end – that end had a thicker layer of orange and you can see that it went more opaque and lighter than the other bead – may have had something to do with it?
CiM Ocher and Sunset
Ocher is CiM’s spelling, I would normally write ochre :p
Ocher is a greenish mustardy yellow. Sunset is an orange coral type of colour. I could see Sunset striking as I worked, but it doesn’t really seem to unstrike again so I got a more uniform colour than I was expecting.
You can see in the spacers that ocher is bit streaky and the sunset is pretty uniform even as spacers.
I made a gremlin out of each to see how they did sculpturally – there is still variation visible in the ocher. The only lighter part of the sunset gremlin was the soles of its feet, which you obviously can’t see here! They are done at the very end. I used marine for the little heart on the ocher gremlin, and the sunset one has a scar and an awesome little skull murrini by Jolene Wolfe (Kitzbitz Art Glass).
I did some random thin stringer trails over a background of Effetre black. You can see a little bit of colour variation in the sunset dots, and also that at this thinness they aren’t entirely opaque, particularly the ocher.
Last of all, I did some tiny ribbed cylinder beads with ocher, sunset and Effetre dark sky blue. Ocher and the dark sky blue react together a little to give a dark out line, while sunset doesn’t. What I find interesting here is how different the ocher looks with other colours next to it – it is much yellower when alongside the sunset. Dark sky blue on top of sunset has a tendency to fuzz out and spread at the edges instead of having a sharp line.
I used dark sky blue rather than turquoise as it tends to grey up less. I did give them a bath in Lime & Grime to remove any that there was.
A couple more comparisons between the limited edition colours.
Green Lantern is greener than absinthe or aloe juice, which are bluer. (Doesn’t show up so well here, but by eye it is). Aloe juice is also less saturated.
Marine is partway between trade winds and tuscan teal – it’s greener and lighter than trade winds but bluer than tuscan teal. None of them are anywhere near as dark as leaky pen.
With the opaque greens, I have included cardamom and Effetre grasshopper green. It Ain’t Easy Being is very much bluer, cardamom is heading more towards the lime end, mint chip is muted and grasshopper green is more saturated. The CiM greens can kind of give the same impression when you look at them one at a time, but they’re definitely different when side-by-side.
Here are the other CiM limited editions I tested at the weekend.
It Ain’t Easy Being
Greeeeeen! Not a Kermit green though, a light blue-tinged green.
I made a gremlin! (Over a core of clear). Marine behaved fine thus far making the little hearts on top of this green.
Here’s a comparison between It Ain’t Easy Being and Mint Chip, which was in the last lot of limited editions. The new green is a bluer one.
Flax is a very pale yellow transparent.
I did the heart to see if it did the faux boro effect with iris gold frit, like Effetre straw yellow. No! Ah well, bit of a fugly heart as a result. (The little hearts have marine or green lantern over It Ain’t Easy Being).
Hazelnut Mousse and Jupiter Storm
These are another pair in the beige range. Hazelnut mousse is on the left here. It strikes a little, as visible on one of the spacers, and is a warm beige. The heart with Double Helix psyche dots has gone a darker brown, as you would expect.
Jupiter storm is the interesting one. It starts as a grey beige and strikes to an orangey colour. Good for silver glass – the psyche dots are sharp and have little outlines. Unusually, it hasn’t fumed from the silver glass – the orange is from striking.
I made a gremlin too – this angle is to show that the psyche heart is right next to a more unstruck part that is still grey – no colour change from being next to the silver glass.
Gremlin! I like this colour – it works like Effetre tongue pink, but is sufficiently different. Tongue pink is white when unstruck, not greyish, and it strikes to a less orange hue than jupiter storm does. Tongue pink also fumes much more.
More to come next time – I have a fair few reds and oranges to test too.
I’ve been sent some more CiM limited editions to test! I believe some if not all of these will be available in the UK fairly shortly.
Jellyfish is a colour-shifting lavender. It looks bluer under halogens and pinker under incandescents or sunlight.
It is also a very close match in colour to Effetre dark lavender, which is becoming increasingly hard to get hold of since Effetre haven’t made any new batches in a while. The round bead is a jellyfish core, then Double Helix psyche and encased in jellyfish. I can’t say whether it’s the same effect as you get from dark lavender and psyche (anyone around who uses that combo often? I’m still bad at keeping psyche reduction under encasement), but the electric blues from the psyche are pretty good, and if you want a dark lavender-alike for the colour on its own, then this would definitely be up your street.
A lovely deep teal blue.
Sadly, it seems to have incompatibility issues when encasing white, which is a real shame because the combo looks great. These two are Effetre white and you can see multiple cracks.
The next day I made another two, one with peace and another with Effetre just to make sure I hadn’t done something stupid. In this case, the one with peace has the crack, running into the dot, centre right from the top of the bead – the Effetre hadn’t yet at the time of taking this photo, but I wouldn’t be at all surprised if one turns up in a few days. Incidentally, you can see the difference in density between the peace and Effetre white dots – peace is less bright and has more noticeable rings inside the dots.
The heart is marine over Effetre white, gravity swirled. Even with the colour this thin, there are cracks (and very definitely incompatibility ones, at that).
From another angle. The crack comes down from partway through the top lobe, then changes direction towards us. That ain’t thermal.
I’ll need to try it over a few other things – I am guessing light opaques like dirty martini may be ok to use as a base as that’s a bit stiffer. Still a shame!
A pretty transparent green. I haven’t put it side-by-side with any of the other greens yet.
To test the striking colours in circumstances where they’re more likely to strike, I made pressed lentil beads.
Radio Flyer: definitely opaque-looking.
Bing: has opacified a bit more. You can see the mandrel hole, but I’d list this as semi-opaque.
Absinthe: still very transparent.
Tandoori: has struck much oranger and has gone cloudy. (Though slightly unevenly at one end, which is lighter than the other). I also did a bead with psyche scrolls on tandoori – the psyche shows up as dark blue with plenty of shine and the tandoori has darkened more.
Here’s a close up of the tandoori beads.
Next I tested mint chip with copper green and psyche.
The mint chip has gone a bit streaky under both of these, but more so with the psyche. The copper green has done its thing where it goes darker in the centre with a pale halo, but it has also greyed up a great deal. Psyche has fumed the base yellow and is showing up as brownish purple. That’s fairly expected.
Here is psyche on the other neutrals.
Cake batter has stayed very clean-looking and has only been fumed a very small amount. The psyche appears very brown.
Antique Lace is a bit streaky, has stayed a pinkish brown and the psyche is fairly brown.
Muskmelon has gone streakier and fumed darker, and the psyche has blue hints. This seems the most reactive base out of the three.
Here are the reds, oranges, pinks and neutralish colours.
Front to back: daffodil, alley cat, tandoori, bing, radio flyer.
Frangipani, antique lace, cake batter, musk melon and weimaraner.
Here are the pinks and neutrals all laid out.
Frangipani at the front, antique lace is the pink-tinged light colour, cake batter is the yellowish and musk melon the greenish. Weimaraner is a blue-tinged grey.
All three of the light colours are pretty, subtle, clean shades.
Frangipani was previously Unique Crocus-2. How much it opacifies varies by how much you cool and reheat it. It got some surface mottling which is rather pretty. If you don’t want it to do that, you may be able to avoid it by working cooler.
Weimaraner as spacers is a fairly uniform colour (remember the goblin brought out more dark lines from the sculpting). Blue-grey rather than green-grey or brown-grey.
Now for the reds. Bing is much more transparent, with some mistiness evident inside the spacers, but you can still see through to the mandrel hole. Radio flyer is a semi-opaque: you can’t see through it, but you can see just inside the surface, giving it a very glossy look. It is a somewhat deeper, cooler red than bing. The difference is a bit more obvious above than it is when they are put on a wire.
I will be making lentil beads from the striking colours, because that’s a better way to see how they look when heated and cooled more and in higher volume. I have a suspicion that Bing might become mistier still.
The oranges. Daffodil and alley cat both strike a little, even in spacer-sized beads so you can see some variation across the surface. Daffodil is a pretty yellowy orange and alley cat is exactly the right shade of marmalade for making cats! I like both of these a lot. (My camera does overdo the orangeness, so I had to adjust the colours in these a bit – they appear more accurate to me now).
Tandoori… well, it barely struck at all like this! So I will be making a lentil of it later. If you wanted an actual transparent yellow that isn’t misty or electric greenish, then keeping this barely struck covers that! I don’t know how easy that would be to do when you wanted it to happen, though…
As well as the lentils, I want to test various of the opaques with silver glass. And maybe break out the copper green.
I have some CiM to test!
This is the first half, covering the greens and blues. The next lot are reds, oranges, pinks and neutralish colours.
Here are the transparent/translucent greens and blues in rod form.
Front to back: aloe juice, absinthe, Tuscan teal, trade winds and neon blue.
These are the opaque green rods.
Goblin, shrubbery and mint chip.
I mostly did small plain beads for this pass of testing, just to see how the colours came out and how they were to work.
Aloe juice and absinthe
In small spacers, they looked very similar. Aloe juice is a very pretty transparent green, nice to work. Absinthe is an opal/translucent and it appears it takes a bit of effort to make it do that. It has the slightest hint of mistiness in the spacers I made, and is a tiny bit darker than the aloe juice, though that is more obvious when both are larger. Absinthe is also a much softer colour that likes to spread along the mandrel. It either doesn’t etch at all, or needs a lot longer in the etching liquid. The little spacer at the end was the etch attempt. Aloe juice etches well for a sea-glass look.
Tuscan teal and trade winds
Tuscan teal is a lovely deep teal, not too green, and is not so dark that you can’t use it on its own in spacers, but also looks great over white. (I am using Effetre white in all these). Etches fine. Trade winds is a very dark midnight denimy blue. I didn’t do plain spacers with this, they would have just looked dark. Again, looks great over white and etches.
Neon blue is similar to cobalt, but is a slightly different shade. It is surprisingly soft for such a saturated blue. Etching makes it seem very slightly purpler. It stands out very well on top of white. I am keeping an eye on these because one of the ones over white has a crack, but there was also a brief power cut when the kiln had nearly finished ramping down, so I can’t be certain if there’s any problem there. The second bead has no cracks yet, and I did an unphotographed test of it over CiM peace the next day too.
Mint chip, shrubbery and goblin
I like these greens sitting side by side like this! Mint chip is a beautiful pale opaque green. There have been a few of these from CiM with slightly different shades – sprout, for example, and I don’t have them side-by-side to compare right now. Mint chip goes by its name well – it is a pretty minty green, no yellow tinge. It also has a very smooth uniform colour, no darker lines.
Shrubbery is a mid, yellowish green. I wouldn’t quite call it an olive, but it’s getting there. It does have noticeable lines where the colour has been applied.
I like goblin a lot. It is a dark olive colour with dark lines that is deep and shiny on its own and softer when etched. Good for organics and leaf tones, I would think! The rod was a bit shocky though – if you look up at the rod photo, you can see it’s cracked just above the dark line where the most heated section stopped. When I was doing my sculptural bead below, I had to baby it back into the flame every time I picked it up again, or it was shocking off along there and losing a significant chunk of glass. I only had the one rod, so I can’t say whether this would happen with all of them.
Here’s a pic on side so you can see the streakiness or lack thereof better.
Then I had some fun and made some goblin beads! (Using my dragon eye murrini). These are grumpier than gremlins and have much bigger TEETH.
Goblin, shrubbery and Weimaraner (of which more next time). The colours are darker in places when worked like this: they go in and out of the flame a lot and have heat directed at specific areas, which brings out the darker lines. You can see a little bit of reduction here and there, particularly near goblin goblin’s eye. I like the gnarly look on these!