Posts Tagged red
The spring 2017 limited editions from Creation is Messy had a whole load of transparent greens, and a whole load of opaque grey rods.
To start with, I picked out the first few colours that appealed to me (those greens!), along with a couple I thought would go with them.
Chartreuse (left) is a luridly bright light yellowy green which I love.
Inchworm (middle above) is another bright juicy green that is more transparent than CiM’s Poison Apple, which is a more standard opalino and can strike lighter and more opaque. Inchworm (like chartreuse) didn’t opacify at all and remained a lovely uniform misty transparent.
I also love this colour (right beads), which is a uniform opalino beige. It is less streaky than Reichenbach’s mystic beige or pearl beige, and has a nice amount of translucency. Again, it does not seem to strike lighter or more opaque when worked for longer.
Yangtze and Sea Mist
I am in two minds about Yangtze and Sea Mist. They are full of micro bubbles and the end of the rod boils very easily, both of these leaving bubbles that don’t go away. The rods themselves look faintly striped inside. I would normally dismiss these as poor quality glass, but I do really like the way the nuggets look – it is different from an opalino, or an etched bead, or from baking soda bubbles. They are muted non-uniform colours which are quite different from the rest of the palate. I think they would do well to pair with or mimic semi-precious beads which have cloudiness or inclusions, where most transparent glass beads alongside those look too brash and uniform in colour. So if you have a very specific use-case, these might be useful. I think I’d buy them if they weren’t too expensive, because I do have a lot of semi-precious beads I think they would go well with (labradorite, blue lace agate and so on).
Troll is an opaque muted grey-green that is not unlike various of CiM’s other colours, but is still a type I like and find useful. I picked it as an opaque to go alongside these other colours for the two-tone beads below. It does strike greener than it appears on the rod, which is more of a blue grey.
All the nuggets!
Aren’t they pretty just on their own?
Troll and chartreuse above.
Inchworm and bubbly yangtze above. I do like the colour fade from one to the other.
Cornsilk and very bubbly sea mist above.
You can see an area of Sea Mist that boiled on the rod on the back of this bead. For use in a non-organic bead this is a no. For one that is, there’s a possibility you might want to do this on purpose. (Again I like the transition from one colour to the other).
Troll and sea mist above.
Cornsilk and chartreuse above.
For the rest of the colours, I decided to do organic beads, and paired them up for this.
Peat Moss and Safari
Peat Moss is a suitably brown-olive transparent green. I trapped a couple of bubbles but on the whole it is very clear.
Safari looks greyish in the rod, and not having looked them up beforehand, I was very surprised that it immediately struck to a light sandy brown! The bead coming out of the kiln is more uniform than it looked going in, but you can still see a darker brown in one corner below.
I put a wrap of Effetre New Ivory across the transition and twisted it. It is a very handy insta-silvered-ivory rod and I really like the way it came out.
Peridot and Van Dyke Brown
Peridot is a pale transparent yellowish green. It does bubble quite easily, but they mostly ended up like tiny champagne bubbles here rather than scum, so don’t look too ugly.
Van Dyke Brown is like Safari but darker and greyer. This bead has kept a bit more of the colour variation (but on the light side) so we have a pale milky grey and a warm brown, with some transition areas of yellow and cooler darker grey. It remains streakier than Safari did.
Eel Grass and Pachyderm
Eel Grass is a midtone green. I got a few bubbles again but not too many.
Pachyderm is a grey-brown that has streaks and variations that are less extreme than the previous two. It has come out distinctly warmer and browner than the rod here. (I like these types of greys – CiM has had quite a few of them now).
Refresh and Prussian Blue
Refresh is a very pretty pale green-aqua (and I think it looks great here!).
Prussian Blue is a dark easily-mottled streaky blue that will strike greenish. Here it has stayed mostly blue.
I added Effetre New Ivory again and I love the combination of all three colours.
Hemoglobin and Koala
Hemoglobin is a semi-transparent red (only the little nub on the side has remained particularly transparent).
Koala is the actually grey one out of all these grey-looking rods. It has striated here next to the New Ivory and produced strong dark lines but from the bottom of the bead looks like it would stay pretty uniform away from that.
There’s an interesting bit here where the New Ivory is underneath and thin on top of the red (and over-reacted on top of the koala).
Finally, I did a pair of tests with Safari and Van Dyke Brown as the most reactive colours, combined with silver glass Double Helix Okeanos.
For these beads I had a central cylinder of the brown, a cap of okeanos on each end with little brown dots, and a wrap of okeanos around the centre on top of the brown. (The colours of the okeanos make it look like it is below the browns, which isn’t the case. You may need to stare at it a little!)
In this first bead with Safari, the central okeanos wrap has spread to be very wide. There are dark lines and interior reaction lines in the Safari (the latter particularly obvious in the dots).
The Safari has struck a bit darker than before, which you would expect, but there is plenty of lighter shade left. Okeanos has produced its pretty blues and greens easily.
Now for Van Dyke Brown.
Here, the central band of okeanos has been swallowed somewhat by the surrounding brown, making it much thinner than the previous bead. The Van Dyke Brown has struck browner than before, and only has grey in the dark reaction lines.
Here are some more bags for Beads of Courage that I made in October.
Two in green camo-print and another red car bag.
Here we have a swan, a blue and peach swirly feathery design (I have a fair bit of that, in odd-shaped long thin pieces – it’s an 80s possibly-wax-print fabric), and a gold on beige patterned bag. I really love the way that one looks with the burnt orange I used to line it.
Rearranged so you can see the feathery one.
I’ve just received some Designers Guild kids range samplers (also Scrapstore), and there are some really lovely and cute pieces in there, so I will be making bags from those next.
I also made myself a new pincushion – since I have two sewing machines now, I keep finding my pincushion is at the wrong one… (My current pincushion is one I made at primary school – two squares of felt hand-sewn together). This is a Scrapstore fabric that I’m hoarding somewhat since I love the design, suns and planets on red – I decided to use a little bit of it to make something for me.
I stuffed it with thread offcuts – I keep those along with trimmed frayed edges and other tiny little unusable scraps in a box for this kind of thing.
I also did a little experimenting with fabric paints – the ones I used here are Pebeo paints, but I also have medium to add to my normal acrylics, and I have some Procion dyes. Paint sits on top of the fabric so makes it stiffer – I thought of using dye for most of it and then possibly adding thin lines for illustration with paint, if I want to illustrate it. I was just doodling with this to see how the paint worked. (White fabric also from the Scrapstore). The frame is a quilting hoop that is very handy for this – I noticed that The Works had small hoops when I was there, so got a pair of those too for smaller pieces of fabric.
This is a gorgeous colour – a bluish grey that isn’t entirely opaque. CiM have it described as an opalino – it’s less opalino than some. From the rod you assume it’s opaque, when working it remains looking surprisingly transparent, then when it comes out you have a slight softness to the surface (and a lot of lovely mottling, for me anyway!)
Spacers: the right two are etched. The darker spacers had more glass added right at the end and not struck so much – it goes lighter, bluer and more opaque the more it is worked.
The gremlin has come out similarly: not very much difference from the longer working time – the lips are lighter and the mottling is less visible on them.
This egg got plenty of mottling while being worked. The stripe is Effetre white, which has feathered into the grey and started swallowing the thin caboose stripe. The dots are tortoise and have kept crisp edges though have reacted in the centres. (French grey is an excellent egg colour! Adds all the interest itself).
I know a lot of people were intrigued by this one! Described as a blue canyon de chelly and with the ability to strike different shades.
My spacers came out different shades, but mostly on the green side. Etches fine and is pretty that way.
My gremlin has more variation, with that blue-purple that came out in the middle of the lips! The eyelid tends a little more to blue as well.
This needs testing with silver glass as well, to see what happens there.
This egg is a base of caboose (no devit issues this time) over 006 with tortoise dots – they’ve stayed lovely and sharp on top, without very much variation.
I got a lovely big pile of new colours to test and then had kiln controller issues, which means so far I have only had time to try these two!
This colour surprised me! Look at the difference between the rod colour and (most of) the beads. Those spacers were batch annealed because of the aforementioned kiln problems, and before they went in the kiln they were much more like the rod colour – still swirly with transparent and less transparent areas, but a yellow ochre rather than a green ochre. The gremlin went into the kiln straight away, and they all came out like this! Which frankly I find far more interesting.
A spacer close-up: I etched the left two. I’m not what I did to the warmer-coloured one differently than the others – struck it less? The stripe round the middle suggests I added a small last amount of glass to match size with the previous one. (Which I did, though I couldn’t tell you with which bead).
End-on: those green variations make me happy! The rightmost bead in particular: I just find the distribution pleasing.
I made a gremlin with little red flowers. You can see it’s opaque enough as lips and eyelid, but there’s still glow and reflected light from transparent/translucent areas. The feet are yellower and more transparent – they were done towards the end, just before I added the vine, so they get much less in-and-out of the flame. There’s an area on top of the lip that’s gone yellow again too. That’s next to where I heated and raked a bit of the vine, so that’s consistent with it being the initial colour and the green developing as it strikes more, unless you reset it.
Overall, the swirliness and colour differences remind me of some of the Vetro odds, but a lighter, non-cored colour. I’d like some more, which I hadn’t thought I would from the rod alone.
This is a coral red. It does look slightly darker here under my halogen light than under incandescents or sunlight, but it doesn’t change nearly as much as some reds. It’s pretty uniform and not streaky, which can again be an unwanted issue with many opaque light reds.
Spacers, left two etched.
A little gremlin with steely blue flowers.
This one’s quite a small gremlin!
Creation Is Messy have sent me some more colours to test!
This post is for some juicy reds and oranges.
Tiger Lily is a semi-opaque/semi-transparent orange (whichever way round you prefer to describe these!). I used a core of clear for these gremlins, so you can see where that changes or doesn’t change the body colour. Here you can see there’s a difference between the body and lips, but the body is still opaque enough not to see through. It is also streakier.
Poppy is a bright light red, also semi-opaque. It came out fairly uniform here, whether over clear or not.
Heartthrob is a darker semi-opaque red, more of a blood red. This colour darkens more under halogens than the others, so is a tad brighter in sunlight, but still darker than Poppy. Again quite uniform in colour.
Cinnamon Jelly is streakier and more transparent than the others – you can see that a bit at the corners of the mouth. It’s a dark orange-red.
Here’re the red gremlins side-by-side.
I also used these four colours to make dots over Effetre white. Tiger Lily and Poppy had a bit of a tendency to bubble on the rod as I was making dots, which are the smeary ones. Possibly should have done that cooler. I had the base shape a little smaller on the other two, so they fit the press better and were worked less.
Side by side, which stops the white bases melding into the background.
I made a pair of nuggets in each colour as well. You can see that Cinnamon Jelly is definitely the streakiest, and also the least opaque when used solidly like this. Tiger Lily and Poppy are lovely and bright, and again Heartthrob can look a little brighter in sunlight.
ETA: Here’s a pic in sunlight.
You can see Heartthrob is lighter, though we also have a problem with them all being oversaturated by the camera… The Heartthrob gremlin on its own is a reasonably accurate representation.
Last week’s nails.
• Revlon white (part of a neon duo set)
• Collection 2000 Hot Looks – Big Hair (the red)
• Pretty – Scatter effect (black dots in whitish grey)
• Sinful Colors Time Off (nail art black)
• Seche Vite top coat
I like the way this came out. I wanted something to try out the scatter polish with. It needs a base under it because it is a very translucent whitish grey with the little black dots in it. It isn’t hugely saturated with glitter either, so you get quite a thick layer of polish with not a great deal of dots, so to layer it up itself to opaque would be tricky.
Big Hair is a lovely bright red that I like a lot.
The Sinful Colors nail art black was a very handy find, also in Poundland. I didn’t actually know it was a nail art one when buying it, I was just after any black, and the label was printed in black… The brush is really nice – very long and thin and great for making the lines.
Oh and this last one was from before. The beads are ornate bicones in a nice creamy coloured base with flame shards applied. The nail polish was Revlon’s Chroma Chameleon aquamarine, which has lilacs at some angles. I put Chit Chat Ariel on top, which is another of Poundland’s. Very pretty blue-aqua hex glitter in two sizes, though again there’s a lot of thick base polish and the glitter’s not so saturated. This was two coats, with Seche Vite stuck on top to get it to actually dry – the clear base is a very jelly one. Still pretty, just don’t try and get full glitter coverage with these!
In the limited edition reds and oranges section, I have three transparents and two opaques.
Orange Crush, Firecracker and Rudolph
I left these trios of spacers on the mandrel so you could see what the striking is like. I deliberately struck all three colours, which was not difficult. Orange Crush is an orange that strikes from transparent to misty. The bottom of the furthest out bead is transparent while the top is cloudy.
Firecracker is a medium light red with orange tones – you can see that the end spacer is less struck and much more orange.
Rudolph is a true red, and has less colour variation in striking. The end bead is mistier but is still red.
I also made lentil beads and small dotty rounds which have a core of Effetre white encased in the colour and then white dots. You can see from the lentils that both the reds go quite opaque, while orange crush has streaky translucent and transparent areas.
One of the orange crush spacers cracked on one end – that end had a thicker layer of orange and you can see that it went more opaque and lighter than the other bead – may have had something to do with it?
CiM Ocher and Sunset
Ocher is CiM’s spelling, I would normally write ochre :p
Ocher is a greenish mustardy yellow. Sunset is an orange coral type of colour. I could see Sunset striking as I worked, but it doesn’t really seem to unstrike again so I got a more uniform colour than I was expecting.
You can see in the spacers that ocher is bit streaky and the sunset is pretty uniform even as spacers.
I made a gremlin out of each to see how they did sculpturally – there is still variation visible in the ocher. The only lighter part of the sunset gremlin was the soles of its feet, which you obviously can’t see here! They are done at the very end. I used marine for the little heart on the ocher gremlin, and the sunset one has a scar and an awesome little skull murrini by Jolene Wolfe (Kitzbitz Art Glass).
I did some random thin stringer trails over a background of Effetre black. You can see a little bit of colour variation in the sunset dots, and also that at this thinness they aren’t entirely opaque, particularly the ocher.
Last of all, I did some tiny ribbed cylinder beads with ocher, sunset and Effetre dark sky blue. Ocher and the dark sky blue react together a little to give a dark out line, while sunset doesn’t. What I find interesting here is how different the ocher looks with other colours next to it – it is much yellower when alongside the sunset. Dark sky blue on top of sunset has a tendency to fuzz out and spread at the edges instead of having a sharp line.
I used dark sky blue rather than turquoise as it tends to grey up less. I did give them a bath in Lime & Grime to remove any that there was.
I used another pair of my lampwork headpins for these earrings.
#47 Red Berries
My headpins are the round red base of the earrings, on stainless steel which has a dark patina from the heat. I left them dark rather than polishing them up and put the fritty red and white beads on them before wrapping the rest of the wire into a loop. I made the round earwires in sterling silver with little red Czech glass beads wrapped on. I patinated the silver with liver of sulphur and then tumbled it to give the shiny antique silver finish here.
52 little things links
• Craft Pimp Week 46 thread
• Linda of Earthshine Lampwork Bead and Jewellery Design: http://www.earth-shine.co.uk/
• Sue of BlueBoxStudio: http://www.blue-box-studio.blogspot.co.uk
• Jolene of Kitzbitz Art Glass: http://kitzbitzartglass.blogspot.co.uk