Posts Tagged silver leaf
New colours to test! These are the three that I picked out first, pretty autumnal opaques.
Moccasin is the milky mocha brown, Autumn is the peach, and Eucalyptus is the muted green.
They don’t strike differently when making multiple spacers – all very uniform colours.
This Moccasin gremlin has a little bit of Autumn on the shoulder – I wanted to see how much they stood out against each other. Moccasin was nice and smooth to work with.
Autumn is a really lovely colour (there are not many opaque peaches!). It does have tiny micro-bubbles that come to the surface, pop, and leave little marks. These did not show up in the spacers, but do in the gremlin, particularly on the back. (There are a few on the front too but they are less obvious). The rod was also fairly shocky for me – it shot off a number of hollow cone shapes when returning the rod to the flame (rather than solid chunks, which is more usual).
Back showing pits from micro-bubbles.
Eucalyptus is a faded blue-tinged green. As a sculpture there’s a tiny bit of streaking in the colour on the flatter expanses, but not much at all.
I then made some rounds to test reactions. These are all over cores of Effetre 006 clear to make them go further. This pic has them in pairs, moccasin and autumn bases with the same treatment (apart from the rightmost two, which are moccasin bases with dots of autumn or eucalyptus).
Here are all the moccasin bases together.
1) Two wraps of fine silver wire. It has darkened where the wire has actually melted in, but not fumed the rest of the bead.
2) Copper green dots. They have a crisp line round the edges and the copper green itself has greyed up a little (haven’t soaked these in anything to remove it) but there’s not much else going on.
3) Covered in fine silver leaf! This has a greenish sheen.
4) Autumn dots. This has made some streaks in the moccasin underneath, otherwise clean dots.
5) Eucalyptus dots. Very smooth join between the colours – nothing has spread or shrunk.
The autumn bases:
1) Two wraps of silver wire. Again very little fuming.
2) Copper green dots. Same effect as moccasin.
3) Fine silver leaf – colour is brownish as expected.
So, moccasin and autumn are two fairly unreactive colours that keep their original look and smoothness most of the time. Should test for silver glass bases.
The last two are a pair of pretty transparents.
Ice Floe is a lovely pale icy blue. Gorgeous on its own in nuggets. The bead at the back has a base of Effetre clear, rolled in silver leaf and encased in Ice Floe – the silver’s definitely silver, so this could be a handy encasing colour to prevent it going gold. For the ribbed bead, I did a small core of Notos, which has lost most of the iridescence leaving a slightly aqua-tinged centre. Ice Floe did develop some trails of microbubbles in all these beads, but that’s less of a problem in a colour like this – they look watery not scummy. I don’t think I really noticed while making the beads, or I could have tried working it a little differently.
Trapeze is another dark lavender-alike… but this one looks and photographs as purple under halogens rather than blue! It does look *more* purple in sunlight, but it definitely colour-shifts far less than the others. So if that shift annoys you, this is a fab alternative. For the ribbed bead, I encased a base of Double Helix Psyche. That worked much better here than the last time I tried it!
So in sunlight it still has a lot more oomph… but if you weren’t looking at the two pics side-by-side like this, the above one still gives a better impression of the purple than the baby blue you get with dark lavender.
For these earrings, I used a pair of my lampwork headpins to make the entire earring.
These headpins were small golden brown leaf shapes on stainless steel. I added a pair of green Indian agate rondelles and some little lampwork cylinders with silver leaf melted in to them, gave the headpin a little spiral loop to secure the beads and formed the tail into a big rounded loop for the earwire. I left the stainless steel heat patinated from the kiln as it went better with the warm colours that way. (I could have given it a quick rub with micromesh to polish it back up). My stainless steel wire is 0.71mm so a little thinner than my usual 0.8mm earwires.
52 little things links
• Craft Pimp Week 35 thread
• Linda of Earthshine Lampwork Bead and Jewellery Design: http://www.earth-shine.co.uk/
• Sue of BlueBoxStudio: http://www.blue-box-studio.blogspot.co.uk
• Jolene of Kitzbitz Art Glass: http://kitzbitzartglass.blogspot.co.uk
Here are a few more beads I made with the 96 coe glass.
I made a latticino with steel blue and heliotrope and used it on this little bead (which vaguely reminds me of an elephant). I probably pulled it down a tad too small, but you can still see the lines.
I made some flowery beads – these include a vine cane made of steel blue and vanilla.
I forgot to include the swirly blue bead in the pictures above – it was made from the end of the cane pull.
Finally, these are some little cylinder beads similar to my previous test beads that I am going to make a necklace from.
Here’s last weekend’s haul of beads. I made a lot of small pairs this time because my stash of small beads was hugely eaten into at the Flame Off and I’m running out of earring beads! (I had an orphan bowl where I’d just poured all my usable leftover and test beads that dated all the way back to when I started lampworking and was charging £5 to fill a small ziplock bag. It was quite popular! I’d never have used them all myself, so that was good, but now I do need a few more).
Honey yellow and Orange Grove frit
To begin with, I made a pair of little cylinders in R 0017 honey yellow with granny apple green frit. The honey yellow opacifies a lot.
I also made a pair of frit painted cylinders using Plowden & Thompson clear and Jolene Wolfe’s Orange Grove frit. These are neon bright!
Pastel green and isar blue
This next pair of colours are reaction tests. I made pastel green bases and put fine silver leaf on top. This was to double-check the result I got last time. Yep, the leaf definitely goes a lovely darker colour. Heating and cooling did seem to develop the colour after the initial melting in of the leaf.
I also tested iris gold frit on isar blue bases. The iris gold is dark brown in the centre with a yellowish ring around the outside, and the isar blue has developed separation lines in its surface.
Lemon yellow and isar blue
The blue pair have an isar green base, with pastel green dots, steel blue transparent dots and more pastel green dots. The pastel green is decidedly translucent in this application – the first row of dots in it don’t really show at all, having been swallowed by the blues. The steel blue is tinting the top dots.
The other pair are vanilla and lemon yellow stacked dots. The lemon yellow is something of a transparent olive in the rod – fairly saturated but not so much as to look black.
Old rose and heliotrope
These cylinders have a base of old rose and then heliotrope stacked dots. The heliotrope fuzzes out at the edges and pushes the old rose around.
Pinks and purples
Caroline at Beadbug has a sample pack of all her Reichenbach pinks and purples: these are the opaques. Aren’t they pretty? No devit here – they seem to strike a little, though I have no idea if they’d do that once in the kiln anyway.
In order from pink to purple: old rose, soft rose, opal dense rose, coral pink, opal raspberry, lilac red, opaline pink.
The opaline pink is oddly named in my opinion, as it’s the darkest purple one here. The coral pink is noticeably redder than the others.
Finally, a set of tiles. Vanilla, opal dense rose, opaline pink, isar blue (including a twistie made from the vanilla and pinks).
I did some testing of Lauscha SNO 630 caramello recently.
It’s a creamy, caramelly warm beige that looks good with reduced silver leaf. It’s also really nice to use instead of white in black-and-white scrollwork beads, for a warmer but still crisp and elegant look.
You can see the full results here: Caramello Testing on Lauscha.co.uk.